Lemon poppy seed bread sweetened with honey makes for an ultra-moist crumb. (Photo by Deb Lindsey for The Washington Post)

Lemon poppy seed bread sweetened with honey makes for an ultra-moist crumb. (Photo by Deb Lindsey for The Washington Post)

A good-for-you addition to the lemon-poppy seed continuum

This brightly lemony quick bread, punctuated with gently crunchy poppy seeds, is sweet and tender enough to satisfy a cake craving, but it does so in a much better-for-you way.

It is made with healthful olive oil, mostly of whole-grain flour and has much less refined sugar than similar recipes. The loaf is sweetened in part with honey, which not only lends a rich flavor and some antioxidant power, it also makes for an ultra-moist crumb.

Because honey increases browning, the cake bakes at a lower temperature, which makes the top turn out level rather than with a high crown. But what you forgo in height you more than make up for with a gloriously deep golden-brown, caramelized crust.

To let the lemon flavor come through clearly and cleanly, I recommend using both honey and olive oil that are mild and light in taste and color. This recipe is the perfect afternoon pick-me-up to enjoy with a cup of tea or to serve as part of a brunch spread.

Lemon poppy seed bread

1⁄3 cup olive oil (one that is light in flavor and color), plus more for greasing the pan

1 cup whole-wheat pastry flour or regular whole-wheat flour

½ cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

2⁄3 cup granulated sugar

1⁄3 cup honey (one that is light in flavor and color)

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons freshly grated lemon zest (from about 3 large lemons)

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1⁄3 cup buttermilk, well shaken

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons poppy seeds

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Brush or spray a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with a little oil. Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit the bottom of the pan and place it inside.

Whisk together the whole wheat and all-purpose flours, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a mixing bowl.

Whisk together the sugar, honey, the 1⁄3 cup of oil and the eggs in a separate bowl until well incorporated, then stir in the lemon zest and vanilla extract.

Combine the buttermilk and lemon juice in a liquid measuring cup.

Alternate adding the dry ingredients and then the buttermilk mixture to the egg mixture, in two batches each, stirring after each addition until just incorporated. Gently stir in the poppy seeds.

Pour the batter into the pan, spreading it evenly. Bake (middle rack) for 40 to 45 minutes, until browned and a wooden skewer inserted into center comes out clean. (The small loaves may need less baking time, and may dome slightly.) Let cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then dislodge from the pan (and paper) and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before serving or storing.

Makes 10 servings (one 9-by-5-inch loaf or two 5 1/2-by-3-inch loaves).

Nutrition per serving: 250 calories, 4 grams protein, 38 grams carbohydrates, 10 grams fat, 2 grams saturated fat, 40 milligrams cholesterol, 140 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber, 23 grams sugar.

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