A place to make art

  • By Solvej Schou Associated Press
  • Saturday, September 10, 2011 12:01am
  • Life

BIG SUR, Calif. — The road to Big Sur is a narrow, winding one, with the Pacific Ocean on one side, spread out like blue glass, and a mountainside of redwood trees on the other.

The area spans 90 miles of the Central Coast, along Highway 1. Los Angeles is 300 miles south. San Francisco is 1

50 miles north. There are no train stations or airports nearby. Cellphone reception is limited. Gas and lodging are pricey.

ADVERTISEMENT
0 seconds of 0 secondsVolume 0%
Press shift question mark to access a list of keyboard shortcuts
00:00
00:00
00:00
 

When you’re there, though, Big Sur’s isolated beauty is staggering. Fog settles into the steep flank of the Santa Lucia Mountains, above beaches lined with tide pools and massive rock formations. Guest houses are surrounded by thick walls of green foliage, and not much else.

Venerated in books by late authors Henry Miller and Jack Kerouac, it’s no wonder then that Big Sur continues to be a haven for writers, artists and musicians such as Alanis Morissette and the Red Hot Chili Peppers, all inspired by a hybrid landscape of mountains, beaches, birds and sea, plus bohemian inns and ultra-private homes.

While Big Sur’s influence on the arts has been turning up in poems, books and songs in American popular culture for nearly a century, its human history goes back much farther than that. Earliest inhabitants included the Native American Esselen tribe, followed by pioneers who settled the area in the late 19th century.

In the 1920s, American poet Robinson Jeffers meditated about Big Sur’s “wine-hearted solitude, our mother the wilderness” in poems like “Bixby’s Landing,” about a stretch of land that became part of Highway 1 and the towering Bixby Bridge 13 miles south of Carmel. (Part of the highway near that bridge collapsed due to heavy rains this past spring, followed by a landslide nearby; the roadway reopened recently.)

Another poem by Jeffers, “The Beaks of Eagles,” later inspired a Beach Boys’ song on their 1970s album “Holland.” In the early ’70s, Beach Boys co-founder Al Jardine even built a recording studio, Red Barn, a 10-minute walk from Pfeiffer Beach, a picturesque oceanside expanse in the middle of Big Sur covered in lavender-tinted sand.

Among literary figures, Miller probably has the strongest association with the area. “Big Sur has a climate all its own and a character all its own,” he wrote in his 1957 autobiographical book “Big Sur and the Oranges of Hieronymus Bosch.” “It is a region where extremes meet, a region where one is always conscious of weather, of space, of grandeur, and of eloquent silence.”

Miller, famed for his explicit novel “Tropic of Cancer,” lived and worked in Big Sur between 1944 and 1962, drawn to the stretch of coast’s idyllic setting and a revolving cadre of creative, kind, hard-working residents.

Miller initially stayed at a log cabin built by Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth in the mid ’40s with a grand coastal view of southern Monterey County. Later owners Lolly and Bill Fassett founded the open-air Nepenthe restaurant on the site in 1949. Writers, hippies and celebrities, from Clint Eastwood and Kim Novak to Man Ray and Dylan Thomas, flocked there. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton shot a dancing scene for their film “The Sandpiper” at the restaurant in 1963. Nepenthe remains a popular tourist spot.

Miller’s longtime Partington Ridge property 14 miles south of the Big Sur post office still exists.

One of the Beat Generation’s most important writers, stayed in a cabin there. For Kerouac, the ocean became dangerous, and bridges, places of potential death. “I gulp to wonder why it has the reputation of being beautiful above and beyond its fearfulness,” Kerouac wrote.

Kerouac’s book inspired the 2009 documentary “One Fast Move or I’m Gone: Kerouac’s Big Sur” and its Another entity that connects contemporary artists to an earlier generation is the Henry Miller Memorial Library next to Highway 1, founded by a friend of Miller’s a year after he died in 1981. A wooden sign with yellow lettering leads to a lush, tree-lined outdoor performance space that has hosted the likes of Patti Smith, Arcade Fire and Phillip Glass.

“We have a precision here that’s perfect. It’s a humble little cabin, but it’s located within this magnificent landscape,” said Magnus Toren, the library’s executive director since 1993. “Male and female artists have come and testified to me about being inspired by Henry’s message that they received at 18, 19, 21. They almost kiss the floor when they come in.”

The area also attracts plenty of regular tourists and other vacationers to historic inns such as the rustic Deetjens, south of the library, and the famed spiritual retreat site the Esalen Institute. More than a dozen galleries featuring local artists are nearby.

If you go

Big Sur Chamber of Commerce: www.bigsurcalifornia.org/.

Henry Miller Memorial Library: Highway 1, Big Sur; www.henrymiller.org/ or 831-667-2574. Events held here include workshops, performances, readings, film screenings.

Nepenthe Restaurant: 48510 Highway 1, Big Sur; www.nepenthebigsur.com/ or 831-667-2345. Dinner entrees, $14 to $39. Open for lunch and dinner. Cafe Kevah serves brunch, coffee and pastries beginning at 9 a.m. daily.

Deetjens Big Sur Inn: 48865 Highway 1, Big Sur; www.deetjens.com/ or 831-667-2377. Rates range from $90 to $250.

Esalen Institute: 55000 Highway 1, Big Sur; www.esalen.org/ or 888-837-2536. Retreat center offering overnight stays, hot tubs, workshops and other activities.

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

More in Life

Kim Crane talks about a handful of origami items on display inside her showroom on Monday, Feb. 17, 2025, in Snohomish, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Crease is the word: Origami fans flock to online paper store

Kim’s Crane in Snohomish has been supplying paper crafters with paper, books and kits since 1995.

The Musical Mountaineers perform at Everett’s McCollum Park on June 14, 2025. (Photo courtesy of Adopt A Stream Foundation)
Photo courtesy of Adopt A Stream Foundation
The Musical Mountaineers perform at Everett’s McCollum Park on June 14.
Coming events in Snohomish County

Send calendar submissions for print and online to features@heraldnet.com. To ensure your… Continue reading

A woman flips through a book at the Good Cheer Thrift Store in Langley. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Pop some tags at Good Cheer Thrift Store in Langley

$20 buys an outfit, a unicycle — or a little Macklemore magic. Sales support the food bank.

Audi SQ8 Wows In Motion Or At Rest. Photo provided by Audi America MediaCenter.
2025 Audi SQ8 Is A Luxury, Hot Rod, SUV

500 Horsepower and 4.0-Second, 0-To-60 MPH Speed

Nedra Vranish, left, and Karen Thordarson, right browse colorful glass flowers at Fuse4U during Sorticulture on Friday, June 7, 2024, in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Everett’s Sorticulture festival starts Friday

Festivities will include art classes, garden vendors and live music.

The Mukilteo Boulevard Homer on Monday, May 12, 2025 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
‘Homer Hedge’: A Simpsons meme takes root in Everett — D’oh!

Homer has been lurking in the bushes on West Mukilteo Boulevard since 2023. Stop by for a selfie.

Ellis Johnson, 16, left, and brother Garrett Johnson, 13, take a breather after trying to find enough water to skim board on without sinking into the sand during opening day of Jetty Island on Friday, July 5, 2019 in Everett, Wash. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Epic ways to spice up your summer

Your ultimate guide to adventure, fun and reader-approved favorites!

Sarah and Cole Rinehardt, owners of In The Shadow Brewing, on Wednesday, March 12, 2025 in Arlington, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
In The Shadow Brewing: From backyard brews to downtown cheers

Everything seems to have fallen into place at the new taproom location in downtown Arlington

People walk during low tide at Picnic Point Park on Sunday, March 3, 2024 in Edmonds, Washington. (Annie Barker / The Herald)
Beach cleanup planned for Picnic Point in Edmonds

Snohomish Marine Resources Committee and Washington State University Beach Watchers host volunteer event at Picnic Point.

Bar manager Faith Britton pours a beer for a customer at the Madison Avenue Pub in Everett. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Burgers, brews and blues: Madison Avenue Pub has it all

Enjoy half-price burgers on Tuesday, prime rib specials and live music at the Everett mainstay.

Ian Terry / The Herald

Rose Freeman (center) and Anastasia Allison play atop Sauk Mountain near Concrete on Thursday, Oct. 5. The pair play violin and piano together at sunrise across the Cascades under the name, The Musical Mountaineers.

Photo taken on 10052017
Adopt A Stream Foundation hosts summer concert on June 14

The concert is part of the nonprofit’s effort to raise $1.5 million for a new Sustainable Ecosystem Lab.

Edie Carroll trims plants at Baker's Acres Nursery during Sorticulture on Friday, June 6, 2025 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Sorticulture, Everett’s garden festival, is in full swing

The festival will go through Sunday evening and has over 120 local and regional vendors.

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.