In green, rainy Normandy in northwest France, fishing villages share the coast with stark WWII bunkers and D-Day beaches. This region has long been a battleground. Above it all, the almost surreal island abbey of Mont St. Michel rises serene and majestic, despite the flood of tourists.
The village of Bayeux, only six miles from the D-Day beaches, was the first town liberated after the landing on June 6, 1944. Fortunately Bayeux and its famous tapestry escaped the bombing. Precious to historians, the eleventh-century Bayeux tapestry documents the story of William the Conqueror’s victory at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. As a result, he became the King of England. The decisive battle is depicted on a 70-yard-long cartoon-like tapestry you can see in Bayeux’s high-tech museum.
Nearby Caen was not so lucky as Bayeux during World War II. Bombs annihilated most of the city, but today’s Caen bristles with confidence, students, and a well-restored old city. Caen’s Memorial Museum is brilliant. It gives a thorough look at how World War II was fought – from General Charles de Gaulle’s London radio broadcasts to Hitler’s early missiles to the D-Day landings. A new exhibit, opened in 2004 in honor of the 60th anniversary of D-Day, is called “D-Day Words.” You’ll get a picture of the daily life of troops during the campaign by seeing letters and diaries written during the pivotal summer of 1944. The museum also offers bus tours of the nearby D-Day beaches (www.memorial-caen.fr).
Luckily the picturesque port of Honfleur avoided the bombing of World War II. With just the right light, the town was a favorite of 19th-century Impressionists, attracting Monet from Paris. William the Conqueror used Honfleur as a port to ship his supplies. Today, you can buy shrimp-to-go on the harbor, either cooked or alive. Imitate the locals: rip off the head and tail, then pop the middle into your mouth.
The near-magical island of Mont St. Michel seems untouched by any war, though under attack by tourists – now 3.5 million visitors annually. They come to see the eighth-century abbey of Mont St. Michel. Glorious at a distance, it rises from the sandy bay like a misty dream.
Rouen, the region’s main city and France’s fifth-largest port, is more battle-scarred. Rouen walked a political tightrope between England and France for centuries. An English base during the interminable Hundred Years’ War between France and England, it was here that Joan of Arc was burned in 1431. During World War II, half of Rouen was destroyed by bombs.
Despite the peacefulness of present-day Normandy, the region’s history has been irrevocably altered by war. From William of Conqueror’s victory, to the ill-fated Joan of Arc and the Hundred Years’ War, and to the WWII battle that forever changed the course of history, Normandy is a war veteran. And because U.S. soldiers sacrificed so much during the D-Day invasion, if ever a place in Europe will always remain pro-American, it’s Normandy.
Rick Steves of Edmonds (425-771-8303, www.ricksteves.com) is the author of 27 European travel guidebooks including “Europe Through the Back Door” (published by Avalon) and host of the public television series “Rick Steves’ Europe.”
The new third season airs this week on KCTS, including the “Normandy: War-Torn Yet Full of Life” show. This week’s schedule:
Monday, 5 p.m.: Amsterdam
Tuesday, 5 p.m.: Prague and the Czech Republic
Wednesday, 5 p.m.: Dublin
Wednesday, 7:30 p.m.: Normandy
Thursday, 5 p.m.: Waterford and the Ring of Kerry
Friday, 5 p.m.: The Best of West Ireland
Saturday, 5 p.m.: Normandy
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