Many of the best wines for pairing with winter recipes are rich, generous blends of several grape varietals, as opposed to a single grape type, e.g., cabernet sauvignon. The ability to blend grapes gives a skilled winemaker the opportunity to dial in just the right amount of intensity, body, lushness, fruit and structure to create a wine that is well balanced for hearty cuisine, such as beef bourguignon, cassoulet and game.
This time of year also provides a good excuse for you to splurge. In the summer, there’s no harm in going with an inexpensive but sprightly rose or a red Beaujolais, because in the sun, surf and outdoor air, the focus is (much) less often on the wine. Not so in winter. Guests pay attention to and appreciate a wine they can savor and contemplate.
The following wines are the epitome of winter extravagance. While the flavors are bold and dramatic, the stylistic expression is as smooth as cashmere. It takes tremendous skill to make full-flavored wines such as these that retain their luxuriously supple texture. Prices are approximate.
Stags’ Leap Winery “Ne Cede Malis” Napa Valley 2000 (Field blend of petite sirah and small amounts of carignane, mourvedre, grenache, peloursin and syrah; $52): The name of this wine, Ne Cede Malis (Nuh KAY-day MAH-lees), comes from the Latin phrase, “Don’t Give In to Misfortune,” the motto of Horace Chase, who founded Stags’ Leap. This expressive blend may be the most thrilling wine produced in the entire Stags Leap appellation, which contains many stellar wines.
Because it’s not a cabernet, however, it gets scant notice and is significantly underpriced at around $50. The grapes come from Stag’s Leap’s estate block of 70-year-old vines comprising predominantly petite sirah and a handful of Rhone varietals.
The result is an unabashed style. The 2000 Ne Cede Malis rolls across the palate with earth, berry and black cherry flavors and finishes with a heady crescendo of currant, anise and roasted nuts. Pair this luxurious wine with filet mignon, rib-eye steak, veal or tender game.
Beaulieu Vineyard 2001 “Tapestry” ($40; 77 percent cabernet, 16 percent merlot, 5 percent petit verdot, 2 percent cabernet franc): With accents of creamy American oak and gracefully layered Bordeaux-style fruit (including plum, black cherry and currant). Medium- to full-bodied on the palate, the wine’s fruit, tannin and oak are perfectly integrated. The plush texture and ripe plum, black cherry and currant flavors make for a classic match with grilled lamb, roast duck and other full-flavored, aromatic dishes. Beaulieu has been making Tapestry for almost a decade, but this is the first vintage to truly hit the mark.
Girard Winery 2001 Red Wine Napa Valley ($40; 52 percent cabernet sauvignon; 25 percent cabernet franc; 13 percent merlot; 10 percent malbec): This Bordeaux-style blend offers complexly layered flavors of fresh berry, plum, spice and black cherry, with a silky finish of ripe, chocolate tannins. The cabernet franc component is particularly notable, offering a hint of cheval-blanc-like herb and cassis intensity midway through to the finish. This balanced, stylish wine has the bright liveliness to match with grilled poultry and salmon, and the structure to pair with veal, spring lamb and roast duck. Drink it now and over the next three to four years.
For bargain hunters
Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot 36 ($10 to $12; California): This tasty multi-vintage blend (60 percent zinfandel, 30 percent carignane and 10 percent petite sirah) will please every pocketbook. Made in the style of a French country wine, this rolls nicely over the palate with loads of berry and tropical red fruit highlighted by a finishing touch of vanilla oak. Great with winter stews of beef or pork, as well as with burgers or pasta.
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