For years, I’ve endured well-meaning Northwest friends recommending this or that Mexican restaurant they think will satisfy this Texas transplant’s craving for the food I grew up with.
We’d always end up sitting in a place with sombreros on the wall, me smiling politely and managing faint praise and knowing I’d never, ever be back. Once a guy in North Idaho swore there was good Mexican food in town and literally took me to a Taco Bell.
I quickly realized that I needed to save the Tex-Mex cravings for visits South and be grateful for the incredible cuisine available here. (Because salmon in Lubbock? No bueno.)
Casa Guerrero has given me hope. It’s a neighborhood place my daughter and son-in-law love. On a recent visit, I realized, I’m home. Or close enough.
Its address is Lynnwood, but Casa Guerrero sits just southeast of Martha Lake in a strip mall on 164th Street, between Sixth Avenue and North Road. It’s a small place — too cozy and neat to call a hole-in-the-wall. Maybe a hole-in-the-mall?
The owner, Rafaél Rodriguez, wasn’t in the night we were, but his brother, manager Miguel Rodriguez, chatted with us in between attending to other customers. The place was packed.
He said the family is from Guerrero. That’s the state in Mexico along the southwest coast, south of Mexico City, home to Acapulco. There are several seafood dishes on the menu, including one of my daughter’s favorite, shrimp fajitas.
Sunday night when we were there, a couple of televisions in either corner broadcast a Mexican cable station, sound off, with news of the election of the new president of Mexico, Andrés Manuel López Obrador. I’d guess that on most nights you’ll find a fútbol match on.
The light is low and the mood is relaxed and friendly. This is a great place for a date or small gathering of family or friends.
The menu is ample, with a lot of variety, and the food is … I’ll say it… good. Honestly.
Rodriguez said, and I’d swear, everything is scratch-made, including the drinks.
Cocktails focus on magaritas, with house (always fresh lime) mango, strawberry and premium versions.
A specialty is the Cadillac margarita, “the one to get,” my daughter says. It’s her husband’s regular choice, made with Grand Marnier and your choice of tequila.
There’s a good selection of bottled Mexican beers ($5) and standard domestics ($4).
Chips and salsa (usually the first thing that alerts me to the disappointment to come) were the classic I yearn for. Warm, crispy, not greasy; salsa was good and hot, with fresh onion and cilantro. We also tried the pico de gallo with our chips. That’s the fresh mix of chopped tomato, onion, cilantro and hot pepper. It was OK — a little salty, no jalapeno. But that was to be the only disappointment.
The spice level on most of the things we tried could have been higher, for my taste. But the food was layered with flavor and everything had its own taste; you didn’t feel like you were eating the same thing with each dish.
Entrees come with a choice of soup or salad.
A word about the chicken soup. Knowing we’d have too much to eat, we opted for salads. But the soups are homemade, with chunks of fresh veggies and a hearty broth. The chicken soup is a big favorite on social media. You might consider it for takeout when you’re home miserable with the sniffles next winter (or in June, around here).
We had sangria, which comes in a gigantic goblet. Online reviews have raved about the sangria. It was not the best I’ve ever had, but very tasty, and I’d definitely order it again.
We ordered tacos al pastor, enchiladas de mole (with each filling option, chicken, beef and cheese) and pork tamales. We figured we’d have leftovers aplenty for her husband (we did). The entrees come with the typical load of rice and refried pinto beans, which were pretty standard fare. “Not bad, but kind of underwhelming,” my daughter declared.
It’s nice when restaurant refried beans offer a little something extra in flavor, but let’s face it, they’re usually just a staple on the plate in U.S. Mexican food. These were no better or worse than most. And vegetarians should take heed, with rice, beans form a complete protein. Casa Guerrero will also leave the meat out of anything you care to order that way.
On our plates, the tamales were perfect. The steamed masa wrap was tender with a nice corny flavor, there was a good amount of the slightly spicy pork filling. The suizas sauce (at Casa Guerrero that’s a red, tomato-based sauce, not a cream or green sauce, as is more typical) was a definite leap above the typical canned enchilada sauce you get at some (many) places.
Beware: If you call a brittle, corn shell from a box, filled with a tablespoon of greasy ground beef, a “taco,” don’t waste good table space at Casa Guerrero. Tacos al pastor is one of my favorites. They’re “real” tacos, like you get on the street in Mexico or Texas: a pair of corn tortillas wrapping a healthy portion of grilled meat, chopped onion and cilantro. Three of them come with a couple of lime wedges you can — and should — squeeze on. The restaurant also offers a nice, spicy chile sauce that I’m now addicted to.
Our favorite of this meal was the enchiladas with mole. La Victoria notwithstanding, mole poblano is the traditional Mexican sauce most often served on chicken and enchiladas. It has many ingredients, lots of dried chilies, but not necessarily tomato. There are variations in every region in Mexico and probably every grandmother’s kitchen. Some have chocolate or peanut butter. The best, like Casa Guerrero’s, have a deep, smoky, slightly sweet richness that far surpasses typical “red” or “green” options.
Miguel wouldn’t say what’s in the house mole, but claimed — with a twinkle — the recipe comes from his grandmother. Whether it’s from family or a cookbook, I’m a repeat customer.
The service is great. Relaxed, friendly, attentive, but never too much. Miguel usually greets you and jokes around a bit. If you want the check, ask for it. Otherwise they assume you’ll want to linger and enjoy your conversation, which will include whether you can possibly make room for one of their wonderful desserts.
In addition to the standard flan and sopapillas there are some boozy choices, like bananas sauteed in brandy over vanilla ice cream; or fried ice cream, served with your choice of Kahlua, 43 liquor or Grand Marnier. After a Casa Guerrero feast, sharing is definitely the reasonable option.
A final recommendation: My son-in-law was practically raised in a restaurant (his parents still own an Italian place in Seattle). I won’t say he’s a picky eater, but he recognizes — and appreciates — food that’s made from fresh ingredients. Casa Guerrera is his favorite neighborhood spot.
I’ll be honest: Casa Guerrero isn’t the best Mexican cooking I’ve ever had, served up at restaurants in Texas or Southern California or on occasional road trips to Ensenada.
It’s like the made-with-love meal you get when you’re invited for a family dinner at a friend’s house, whose abuela is a really good cook.
And that is plenty delicious.
Casa Guerrero
The Mexican restaurant, with entrees ranging $11-$25, is at 402 164th St. SW, Lynnwood.
Hours are 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.
Call 425-741-9608 or go to www.casa-guerrero.com.
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