Charlie Chen shifted his feet uncomfortably when he was asked to suggest a meal.
He eyed me and my friend, trying to gauge our stomach for chicken feet in pickled pepper sauce ($4.99) or special tongue slice ($5.99).
About six months ago, Chen opened a restaurant that appeals to his taste for traditional Szechuan food, as well as to the tastes of any locals who might prefer General Tso’s chicken ($8.99). He loves to order for his guests, but he wants to make sure that everyone leaves happy. If he doesn’t know you, he worries.
“Just bring whatever you would eat if you were sitting here,” I told him.
Chen backed away cautiously, and emerged from the kitchen about 15 minutes later with a steaming bowl of fish stew ($12.99).
And even though I’d sworn I wouldn’t say it, the word slipped out between mouthfuls of spicy cod that fell apart on the fork: “Wow.”
Chen smiled. He knew he’d done his job.
He risked backing himself into a corner of unfulfilled expectations and limply satiated hunger, but Chen went for it: He named his south Everett restaurant Chef Wow. It’s what he wants visitors to say after tasting his food.
It’s also a play on the name of his head chef, Fan Wah.
Chen keeps his promise. Since completing my formal review, I’ve been back to Chef Wow. Twice.
Perhaps the best way to order at Chef Wow is to ignore the names of the dishes. Gizzard slice ($5.99) might appear unseemly on the printed page, but beef slice ($5.99) seems approachable. I dug right into a small bowl of thinly sliced beef, topped with scallions, sesame seeds and a piquant pepper sauce. The flavors were so well blended that I was undeterred when Chen explained that the slices included beef and tendon. Pot stickers and dumplings (both $5.99) are freshly made, with thick dough pleated around fragrant pork.
Stews are available with beef, cod, tofu and other proteins. Each is prepared with a colorful sauce that adds spice but doesn’t overwhelm the flavors.
The bowls that emerge from the kitchen are gorgeous — bright red chilies and green scallions and other ingredients are ladled over the meat, and everything can be served over rice. It’s what Chef Wow does best.
Most dishes are named in a self-explanatory way, but don’t expect to find out exactly what is in, for example, a Triple Delight ($11.99) if Chen is not around.
On two separate occasions, servers looked blankly at me when I asked questions, and gestured that I should simply point to what I wanted to eat.
That said, it’s hard to imagine that you could go wrong with anything offered at Chef Wow.
And after just one visit, you’re a regular.
“Oh, it’s you!” Chen said when he saw me on my third visit.
He handed over a neatly tied bag containing my beef stew.
“You’re going to love this,” he said.
He was right.
Chef Wow
11108 Evergreen Way, Suite B, Everett
425-355-9100
Specialty: Chinese
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday, Wednesday — Friday. 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, closed Tuesday.
Alcohol: Beer and wine.
Reservations: Not necessary.
Price: Inexpensive.
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