The port of Dover, just 23 miles by sea from nearby France, is many travelers’ first look at England. Even though the English Channel tunnel in 1994 has stolen some of Dover’s seaborne traffic, the work-a-day town, with its famous White Cliffs and Dover Castle, is as bustling as ever.
For a fine day-trip by train from London, you could visit Dover and Canterbury as one long, busy day. Dover and Canterbury are just 30 minutes apart by train. (See next week’s article for details on Canterbury.) With an extra day and a car, consider a stop at the historic town of Battle or elegant Sissinghurst Castle and Gardens.
Dover and southern England sit on a foundation of chalk. Miles of cliffs tower boldly above the beaches; the most famous are the White Cliffs of Dover. The cliffs are best seen by taking a cruise, which runs four times a day on summer weekends (allow about $20).
Hovering above the cliffs is Dover Castle, England’s primary defensive stronghold from ancient through modern times. The message was clear – no unwelcome guests allowed. Today, the throngs of French school kids are the biggest foreign menace, so it’s best to arrive early to sightsee the castle.
For centuries, the strategically located Dover Castle was considered the key to England by potential invaders. With a lighthouse built during the reign of Julius Caesar, a church (St. Mary-in-the-Castle) constructed to guard against invading Saxons, and heavy fortifications, Dover Castle’s sights are worthwhile. From the top of its spiral staircase, you’ll get a spectacular view of the city, the sea beyond and, on a clear day, France.
Downhill from the main castle area is the entrance to the Secret War Tunnels. Built during the Napoleonic age, these tunnels are so massive that 2,000 men could sleep inside. The tunnels were vastly expanded during World War II, when they allowed Allied commanders to look out over a battle zone nicknamed Hellfire Corner. Open to the public, the tunnels include an elaborate communications center and underground hospital.
Located an hour southwest of Dover by car, the town of Battle commemorates a fight no Brit can forget – the Battle of Hastings – which took place October 14, 1066. On that date, a Norman (French) king took over in England, leading to a string of Norman kings and changing the course of English history forever.
Here is the background of the battle: The British king, Edward the Confessor, had died without a clear line of inheritance for the throne. French-born William, Duke of Normandy, claimed it. He squared off against Harold, Earl of Wessex, who said that Edward gave him the throne on his deathbed. Their troops met for battle just outside the town of Hastings. Harold died on the field that day, and William, dubbed “The Conqueror,” became the undisputed king. Today, you can visit the abbey that William built as thanks, and watch a video that recreates the bloody battle from 1,000 years ago.
For a more genteel afternoon, head to Sissinghurst Castle and Gardens, about an hour’s drive west of Dover. A good introduction to traditional English gardening, this elegant home and well maintained garden is worth seeking out. Vita Sackville-West, socialite, author and lover of Virginia Woolf, purchased this castle and land in the early 20th century, creating an English cottage garden laid out in themed, fragrant sections.
Whatever your passion, Dover and its nearby sights can deliver. Garden enthusiasts will sniff out Sissinghurst. Historians make haste to Hastings. Geologists marvel at the famous White Cliffs, while romantics sigh at the view of France from high-flying Dover Castle.
Rick Steves of Edmonds (425-771-8303, www.ricksteves.com) is the author of 30 European travel guidebooks, including “Europe Through the Back Door.” He hosts a public radio show, “Travel with Rick Steves” (Saturdays at 2 p.m. on KUOW 94.9 FM) and the public television series “Rick Steves’ Europe” on KCTS, airing at 7 p.m. This week’s schedule:
Monday: Eastern Turkey
Tuesday: London: Royal and Rambunctious
Wednesday: Slovenia and Croatia Thursday: The Best of Sicily
Friday: Travel Skills Special, Part 1
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