Thanks to a terrific question from Norma Rae Pilkenton and equally terrific response from Forum cooks, we’re well on our way to becoming happy butter know-it-alls.
Continuing, then, let’s pick up where we left off, with more great info shared by Everett helper-outer Vicki McBride, who took the time and trouble to copy for us “Butter 101,” taken from the March-April 2011 issue of Cook’s Illustrated.
Today, we’ll tackle their “Gauging Butter Temperature” section: “Butter temperature can dramatically affect the texture of baked goods. For the most accurate results, we check the temperature with an instant-read thermometer. The following tactile clues will also provide a good gauge.”
To kind of paraphrase the gauge:
Chilled, about 35 degrees: Cut butter into small pieces; freeze until very firm, 10 to 15 minutes. To test, press with a finger — it should be cold and unyielding. It matters because cold butter melts during baking, leaving behind small pockets of air that create flaky layers in recipes like pie dough and croissants.
Softened, about 65 to 67 degrees: Let refrigerated butter sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. The stick will easily bend without breaking and give slightly when pressed. It makes a difference because softened butter is flexible enough to be whipped but firm enough to retain the incorporated air — vital to making cakes with a tender crumb.
Melted and cooled, about 85 to 90 degrees: Melt butter in a small saucepan or microwave-safe bowl; cool about 5 minutes. The butter should be fluid and slightly warm. This step is important because butter is about 16 percent water; when it’s melted, the water breaks from the emulsion and helps create gluten for chewier cookies.
With a whole lot of knowledge, certainly way more than most of us started with, at least, we’ve bought and brought home our butter. Now let’s check what “Butter 101” has to say about properly storing it: “Placed in the back of the fridge where it’s coldest (not in the small door compartment), butter will keep for 2 1/2 weeks. In tests, we ‘ve found that any longer and it can turn rancid as its fatty acids oxidize. For longer storage (up to 4 months), move it to the freezer. Also, since butter quickly picks up odors and flavors, we like to slip the sticks into a zipper-lock bag.”
The Forum is always happy to receive your contributions and requests, so don’t hesitate to send them along to Judyrae Kruse at the Forum, c/o The Herald, P.O. Box 930, Everett, WA 98206. Please remember that all letters and e-mail must include a name, complete address and telephone number with area code. No exceptions and sorry, but no response to e-mail by return e-mail; send to kruse@heraldnet.com.
The next Forum will appear in Monday’s Good Life section.
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