Whether you live in a single-family detached residence, an apartment, duplex or condominium — anywhere garden space is limited — consider a decorative window box.
Flower-filled boxes can add beauty to a home with an otherwise simple exterior. They also nicely break up large expanses of wood siding or plaster. And, such boxes installed outside second-story windows can be cared for from inside.
Construction of a window box is simple. The choice of material is very important and should be one that resists rot, such as redwood or cedar. Rectangular in shape, most boxes measure about 8 inches deep by 8 inches high and range in length anywhere from a foot to 6 feet or longer.
The components are connected with nails, screws or, as with factory-made boxes, metal straps. A few holes in the bottom panel allow for water drainage. The exterior of the box can be left natural or can be painted or stained to match a surrounding finish.
Factory-made boxes will range in price from $15 for a small unit up to $50 or more for large or ornate ones. The average do-it-yourselfer probably would spend more in time, effort and material making a window box than it would cost at a local nursery or home-improvement center.
On the other hand, there is satisfaction derived from creating your own planter. A benefit of doing so is the ability to create custom designs to complement existing architectural details.
A window box can be added to virtually any window in a home regardless of its size. The key to the lasting quality of the box is the way in which it is installed. Improper installation could result in rapid deterioration of the box and cause damage to the home.
A well-meaning do-it-yourselfer sometimes will hastily nail the box to the plywood or plaster exterior without considering the damage that will result from the moisture trapped between the box and the exterior wall finish.
Window-box woes are easily avoided with a bit of planning and thoughtful installation. Whenever possible, the window box should be detached from the building exterior — 1/2 inch of air space is sufficient. Support should come from below via decorative metal angle brackets or wood corbels. In addition to support, they will improve the appearance of the window box.
Supports should be installed about every 24 inches. Ideally, they should be anchored to the wall framing, but this isn’t always possible when attempting symmetry.
For example, the supports for a three-foot window box should be placed four to six inches in from each end. If a stud is not present at either of these locations, then a toggle or lead anchor can be used to make the proper connection.
Installation is simple. Measure the box from end to end, marking the center with a pencil. Do the same with the window, marking its center just below the bottom edge of the window frame. Ultimately, these two points should be in alignment to center the box on the window. Next, measure in about 4 to 6 inches from each end of the box, and again make corresponding marks on the wall just below the window frame. These points are where the two end supports will be placed. Use a framing square with the long side aligned with the bottom of the window frame to extend a vertical layout line for both support locations. Repeat this process as needed for additional supports for longer boxes.
Measure the box from top to bottom. Transfer this measurement to the two vertical layout lines by measuring from the bottom of the window frame down. For example, if the window box measures 6 inches, the marks would measure 6 inches down from the bottom of the window frame. Use a chalk line to locate the height of intermediate supports.
Decorative metal support brackets, which can be purchased at a nursery or home-improvement center, come complete with drilled installation holes. Place a bracket along one of the layout lines and align the top with the horizontal line. Using a pencil, mark the holes where screws will be installed. Repeat the process for each support member.
Using the appropriate drill bit (wood or masonry) drill a hole to correspond to the anchor being used. When you purchase the anchors, inquire as to the size of the hole to be drilled.
Once all of the holes have been drilled, and before installing the anchors, place a small amount of an exterior siliconized latex caulk in each hole to create a water seal — very important.
Install anchors by lightly tapping them into place with a small hammer. Hold the support bracket into place, aligning the holes with the anchor locations. Insert screws with a shaft that corresponds to the anchor size. It is the screw that causes the anchor to expand, resulting in a secure connection. Repeat this process for each of the support brackets.
Place the box atop the support brackets, aligning the centerline mark on the box with the corresponding mark on the wall. Slight variations of this process can be used to create pot shelves wherein potted plants can be used in lieu of window boxes.
For tips from James and Morris Carey, go to www.onthehouse.com or call the listener hotline, 800-737-2474, ext. 59. The Careys are also on KRKO (1380-AM) from 6 to 10 a.m. every Saturday.
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