ooked white beans are like pearls.
Just as a woman looks stylish in pearls whether she’s wearing jeans and a sweater or a black silk dress, a home cook can make a memorable dinner using cooked white beans in a straightforward side dish or in an elaborate preparation such as cassoulet.
Fortunately, unlike pearls, white beans are inexpensive, which is rather unusual for something with such worth and importance.
There’s no question that beans are valuable. They’re an outstanding source of vegetable protein; they’re also low in fat and have large amounts of iron and B vitamins. They’re easy to cook and lend themselves to a wide range of recipes. They’re so versatile that you won’t tire of them quickly. And they’re tasty, which is what cooking and eating are all about.
You can buy cooked white beans in cans and there is good reason to use them occasionally when you’re pressed for time. If you do, be sure to rinse them first and choose a premium brand; the others can be soft and mushy.
On the other hand, because dried beans are such a cinch to cook and the texture is so much better, we will explain how to prepare cooked white beans and then tell you how to use them in simple and more involved dishes.
Most of the time you’ll be buying dried white beans in one-pound packages. You can use Great Northerns, which are mature seeds of the common string beans; navy beans, which are small; or cannellinis, which are larger and have thicker skins.
These days, packaged beans are fairly consistent in color and size. Still, take the time to look them over, and discard any broken or discolored ones.
Although soaking beans before cooking isn’t essential, there are a couple of benefits. Soaking helps break down the indigestible chemicals that cause intestinal gas.
It cuts down on cooking time, too, by allowing the dried legume to absorb moisture slowly.
There are two basic ways to soak beans. One is to cover them with water and let them rest overnight, for at least eight hours. The slow soak helps assure that the beans will be very tender.
On the other hand, if you haven’t planned ahead, there’s a quicker method that’s almost as good: Bring the beans and water to a boil and cook them for two minutes, remove the pan from the heat, cover the pan and let the beans rest for one hour.
After the initial soak, drain the beans and cover them with fresh water. Cook them slowly until they become tender. Keep the water at a simmer, not a boil, otherwise the skins might split and the beans will disintegrate.
Most white beans will take one to one and a half hours to soften, but if the beans are very old, they might take more time. Taste one; it should be as soft as a cooked green pea.
Some experts say that adding salt or acidic ingredients such as vinegar or lemon juice during the cooking process prevents the beans from becoming tender (the skin tightens and won’t absorb water efficiently).
Others say it’s not so, but it is probably smart not to use salt; you can always season the beans after they’ve softened.
When the beans are tender you can serve them as is. Toss them with a small amount of olive oil to coat the surface, sprinkle with salt, pepper and some chopped fresh herbs, particularly sage, and you’ve got a terrific side dish for dinner. Add some quickly sauteed tomato chunks if you like.
You might also think about pureeing the beans with some of the bean cooking liquid and a bit of butter or olive oil and salt, or perhaps some garlic, chives or scallion. It’s like mashed potatoes, but healthier.
One of the most scrumptious cooked white bean dishes is pasta e fagioli, a thick, welcoming soup for winter. Recipes vary, but this classic always contains small, tubular pasta as well as beans.
Our vegetable-laden version includes carrots, celery and tomatoes. Fresh basil, with its hint of summer gardens, lightens the flavor. Serve the soup with lots of freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.
Cassoulet is the apotheosis of bean dishes. There are hundreds of versions of this grand take on pork and beans. Some cooks add goose legs or duck confit, others use lamb. Our recipe is simple and straightforward, calling for meats that are readily available in every supermarket.
The casserole takes a long time to cook; it’s a nice bet for a Sunday supper or during the week if you’ve had the time to put one together over the weekend. You can assemble the dish and keep it in the refrigerator for two to three days.
Cassoulet is always capped with a bread crumb crust. You can leave the bread crumb layer thick and let it roast to a golden finish, but most cassoulet aficionados prefer it broken. While the dish bakes, crush the crust a few times with the side of a spoon so that some of the toasty-tasting crumbs mix with the beans.
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