All other hikes will be measured against The Enchantments, guidebook writers promised.
We were tempted.
The worshipful tones of all hikers before us into the Alpine Lake Wilderness lured us to the trail’s start, near Leavenworth, on the morning of Independence Day.
Having secured our permit months in advance, we planned to backpack to upper Snow Lake in one day and make our base camp. The next day, we would day trip to the lower Enchantments, hiking back down for another night at Snow Lake. On the third day, we’d hike back out.
Even from the parking lot, the canyon’s jagged peaks beckon. A fire went through this area several years ago, but the vegetation is coming back, making an interesting contrast of charred trees and lush green bushes.
The mountain’s allure faded a bit as we began a long series of switchbacks. About 10 minutes into the hike, we wished we had packed lighter.
We took a slight pause in our switchback climbing to watch a rattlesnake. It had slithered off the trail as we approached and, happily for us, did not seem at all interested in us. After that, we watched the scenery even less as we were too busy carefully eyeing the trail.
After a long trek up the switchbacks, the trail levels off slightly and a sign announces the beginning of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. It’s a welcome greeting after the climb. From this point on, every view seems to get better than the next — when you pause long enough to breathe and look around.
The trail continues up along the creek, eventually coming to a bridge about three miles up. The climb just before the creek crossing is hard, but very scenic. Keep an eye out for mountain goats here. They’re curious to the point of being brazen. Watching them in action will make any hiker wish for a pair of soft hooves.
Also keep an eye out for garter snakes and rubber boas. Both are harmless. The rubber boas are fascinating, as they resemble huge, smooth earthworms.
The crossing at Snow Creek is a convenient place to stop for water. From there, the trail levels briefly before climbing again to Nada Lake. Take a break at Nada Lake — you’re going to need it.
The final climb to reach lower Snow Lake is steep, rocky and requires some minor scrambling. The trail to upper Snow Lake crosses a narrow ford between the two lakes. To cross, you’ll need to traverse a small concrete dam. If the lake is high, you’ll need to put on sandals or accept that your boots will get wet.
Camping is available along upper and lower Snow Lakes. Most of the campsites and toilets are marked with signs. The toilets are no more than a wooden box with a hole and a small lid, and you’re prone to mosquito attacks while using them.
We found a camp near the south end of the lake and settled in. Even bug spray and head nets didn’t prevent several solid mosquito bites. The nuisance, however, didn’t take away from watching the pink and purple hues of the sky, framed by serrated mountain tops, give way to dark.
The next morning, with our packs a lot lighter, the initial part of the trail up to Lake Viviane, the first of The Enchantments, felt almost like floating. Farther along, though, the hike gets tougher. We followed the helpfully placed rock cairns, small stacks of stones that were clearly man-made, to guide our way over the granite boulders. The last 300 feet or so of elevation gain are mostly a scramble, sometimes using all four limbs. During this last climb, we spotted another mountain goat farther off, silhouetted at the top of the rock and scouting other hikers curiously.
The top of the final scramble is worth all the work. Patches of ice still sat on Lake Viviane’s surface as snow continued to edge its way down the steep, craggy mountain. The breathtaking waterfall we spotted on our way up forms as the lake’s icy water hits the cliff’s edge. From the lake we could see all the way down to our base camp on the shores of Snow Lake.
We had hoped to continue on to the other Enchantments but decided against it. The heavy winter snow hasn’t totally melted, and we weren’t prepared to cross snowfields to get to the next lakes. We did, however, see many hikers with ice axes who had come to The Enchantments from the other side.
The return trip required caution. A light rain had made the rocks slippery, so we took our time scrambling down and enjoyed a mosquito-free nap in our tents before dinner.
We woke up early the next morning and packed up. The trip down was nearly all downhill. Miles of elevation loss, though, can wear on the legs and knees. We were more than happy to see the parking lot.
We’ll be back. We still have more lakes to see. Next time, we will definitely pack lighter.
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