The tradition of the Yankee Election Cake is among subjects explored in “America’s Founding Food: The Story of New England Cooking” by Keith Stavely and Kathleen Fitzgerald ($34.95).
The cake’s name referred to the day or season when it was traditionally served, and it’s often mentioned in 19th-century cookbooks and reminiscences, according to the book.
“From the 1630s into the 19th century, Election Day was a communal celebration in the New England colonies and states, held in May, at the time of the election of the governor, the lieutenant governor, and the legislature,” the authors say, summarizing their findings about Election Cake’s link to political elections.
“The name notwithstanding, for much of that time, the type of election that was being celebrated was quite different from those with which we are now familiar.
“Then, elections were open only to freemen, who were defined as white males who owned property (and were church members, or at least were known for their ‘sober conversation’); and although voting was involved, political parties as we know them were not (although they began to emerge toward the end of this period). Rather, the candidates who were put forward were in essence the only choice. Voting was more a matter of endorsement than choice. Dissent was possible, but rare.
“Nevertheless, most people were happy to celebrate what they perceived as a cohesive, prosperous society. Therefore, from the colonial period into the first several decades of American independence, this May holiday known as Election Day was a time to celebrate not only the election of the governor and other officials, but the society itself. From the beginning, the ritual included a sermon by a clergyman, and eventually it coincided with the Harvard commencement and the annual ministers’ convention.
“Until the middle of the 19th century, Election Day continued to represent to New Englanders their sense of their society as one distinguished by egalitarianism and abundance. The celebration of Election Day therefore continued to be very popular. Sometimes the festivities extended throughout a whole week. It was a time for sporting events, open houses and parties.
“And the most popular food served at those parties was Election Cake, a large festival cake in the tradition of the ‘great cakes’ of England – big, spicy, studded with raisins or currants, frosted with sugar and egg whites, or a coating of molasses. Some say that this cake was, in essence, little more than a yeasted loaf cake, a form of coffee cake. But in the late 19th century, as the tradition of celebrating Election Day was waning, many writers remembered the old celebrations, and the cakes served at them, as the highlights of their childhoods.”
Stavely and Fitzgerald provide the recipe for Election Cake (on Page E1), which is based on Imogene Wolcott’s recipe from “The New England Yankee Cook Book” (New York, 1939), mentioned in a footnote in their book.
Wolcott uses the name “Connecticut Raised Loaf Cake,” but says it was also known as “Election Cake,” “March Meeting Cake” and “Dough Cake.”
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