BOTHELL — For weeks, I drove by the construction site of Crossroads Restaurant on the Bothell-Everett Highway and felt everything was moving much too slowly. After all, there’s nothing more exciting than a new restaurant, especially one that’s designed and built as a restaurant.
Crossroads’ modern styling begins outside with burnished aluminum accents highlighting the brick red and sunset yellow. In the dining areas, dark wooden tables and chairs add chic, giving everything a sophisticated air, especially for what the menu describes as a “mom and pop” place.
Yet, this is a family diner so the pie case is next to the register and, yes, you have to walk past those luscious-looking pies to get to your table. My friend and I lingered around the pies and noted the daily specials before being seated in the main dining area.
The Friday night we visited, Crossroads had been open a couple of months. The variety of the Crossroads menu amazed me — complete dinners, soups and salads, pasta dishes, sandwiches and breakfast all day.
Just a few of the choices: pork chop dinner ($12.95), fish and chips ($11.95), spaghetti with meatballs ($10.95), four-egg omelets ($7.45) and liver and onions ($12.95).
Among the sandwiches you’ll find a Monte Cristo ($9.45), which is made with stacks of roast turkey, ham and Swiss cheese between multiple slices of bread. It’s all dipped in egg batter and fried. For many years, this sandwich wasn’t on menus and it was a delight to see it again.
My friend ordered the 12-ounce ground sirloin with grilled onions, mashed potatoes and brown gravy ($12.95). I had some difficulty with my order.
I selected one of the daily fish specials, but our server returned with a menu because the kitchen was out of the special. I considered the fish and chips but knew it would be made from frozen fish and I was in the mood for the fresh, so I selected the salmon special ($12.95). I was irritated about the daily special not being available, and became more so when our server kept responding to questions with, “I don’t know.” It’s a server’s job to know. Deep breath.
Our side salads were extra crispy because the greens were extremely cold, and the servings were larger than at other restaurants. They disappeared quickly along with the warm whole wheat rolls. My companion’s dinner was delicious. The ground sirloin was grilled to his liking and smothered with richly flavored brown gravy.
My dinner was a disappointment. The salmon had a strong fishy flavor and was dry. My friend and I each had one bite and stopped. My mashed potatoes were perfect and we both had a side serving of green and yellow wax beans. They were one of the best sides ever — a refreshing and delicious break from the overworked broccoli-carrot choice.
As we drove to our holiday concert, we wondered why a restaurant would dedicate such time and energy to making a beautiful place that serves out-of-the-ordinary food, yet have a server who wasn’t accommodating, and not be vigilant about the fish.
Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.
Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.
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