LAKE FOREST PARK — “Dang” is a word I hadn’t heard or seen in a long time. And there it was below the menu at Burney Brothers BBQ: “It’s purty dang good!” And, dang, if these two boys from Texas don’t have it right.
| 17171 Bothell Way, Lake Forest Park; 206-417-6200, www.burneybrothers.com
Specialty: Texas-style barbecue Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday Price range: inexpensive Liquor: none Smoking: nonsmoking Reservations: not available Disabled accessibility: no apparent barriers Credit cards: Discover, MasterCard, Visa |
When I visited on a recent Thursday night, brother Steve was behind the counter taking orders.
The brothers’ small restaurant is inside Lake Forest Park Towne Center next to Third Place Books. Burney Brothers BBQ opened in November. It’s part of the food court in the shopping center and rounds out the restaurant selections of the center that include bakery delights and sandwiches plus Italian, Japanese and Mexican favorites.
The Burney Brothers BBQ menu includes combo plates, sandwiches and sides. If you’re having a Super Bowl party, consider ordering by the pound. One-half pound of pulled chicken or pork, beef brisket, smoked turkey or hot links range from $5.95 to $7.95. There’s also half or whole chickens, half and full slabs of ribs and platters that feed eight to 12 ($6.50 to $95).
Not surprising for a barbecue restaurant, vegetarians will be limited to side dishes of coleslaw, potato salad, fries, tossed salad and cornbread ($1.25 to $4.25 for a quart).
Take-out orders are no challenge for the brothers. I ordered sandwiches, beef brisket for my partner ($6.75) and pulled pork for me ($6.25). Each order comes with two sides. Knowing that we’d toss it all on the table and eat what we wanted, I ordered a side of everything – baked beans, potato salad, coleslaw and cornbread ($1.25 each if ordered separately). I also added a regular serving of beanless Texas-style chili for lunch the next day ($3.75).
All that food for two, and none of it from a fast-food place, was less than $25. This was purty dang good news for the post-holiday budget.
As expected, we opened containers and scooped some of this and some of that onto our plates. My membership-warehouse potato salad detector engaged with the first bite of potato salad. Nope, this potato salad’s homemade, as were all the other sides. My favorite was the beans. They’re filled with bits of bacon and seasoned to my liking.
My friend’s beef brisket was tender while my pulled pork was a handful and extremely tasty. Both were served on onion-laced rolls. My only complaint – too little barbecue sauce. I like mine sloppy with sauce. In fact, if I had it to do over again, I’d make the beanless Texas-style chili into a sloppy-joe-like sandwich. It’s spicy without being overpowering and filled with chunks of whole tomatoes.
This wasn’t purty dang good. It was darn good.
Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.
Anna Poole: features@heraldnet.com.
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