Bristling with turrets, the walled town of Carcassonne in southern France looks like it came straight out of the medieval imagination. Like many of Europe’s preserved fortress towns, it’s under attack from camera-wielding tourists, not warriors. But early or late in the day, a quieter Carcassonne is an evocative playground for any kid (or kid at heart) who ever felt like a knight or damsel in a previous life.
Carcassonne’s walls, guarded by 52 towers, run nearly two miles around the area called “La Cite.” No fortress would be complete without a drawbridge and a moat. Like most medieval moats, Carcassonne’s was never filled with water. A deep ditch effectively stopped enemy forces from rolling up against the wall in their mobile towers and spilling into the city. An enemy who “undermined” (tunneled underneath the walls) would have had nasty things dropped on them by angry townsfolk.
In peacetime, the area inside La Cite was used for medieval tournaments and jousting practice. La Cite experienced a brief golden age in the 1100s, when independent rulers with open minds allowed Jews and Cathars to live and prosper. This liberal attitude made for a rich intellectual life, but also proved to be La Cite’s downfall. The Crusades in France led to religious purging – and Carcassonne’s defeat.
A sole symbol of this era remains: the St. Nazaire Church, located in the heart of La Cite. After its successful conquest of this region, France set out to destroy all the Romanesque churches and replace them with Gothic ones, symbolically asserting its northern rule with this more northern style of church. But when war depleted France’s funds, the demolition was abandoned. Today, at St. Nazaire, a Romanesque remainder survives, as does a rebuilt Gothic section. The interior, lit only by candles and 14th-century stained glass, is evocatively medieval.
Across from St. Nazaire, the posh Hotel de la Cite sits inside the city walls. It’s a worthwhile detour to see how the privileged few travel. You’re free to wander, find the cozy bar, and consider a pricey afterdinner drink. Their garden has great views of the walls that you can’t see from anywhere else. Save some energy for a walk around the walls at night – the effect is mesmerizing. With a little daydreaming, the embedded lights become torches and unfamiliar voices the enemy.
As a teenager on my first trip to Carcassonne, I wrote this in my journal: “Before me lies Carcassonne, the perfect medieval city. Like a fish that everyone thought was extinct, somehow Europe’s greatest Romanesque fortress city has survived the centuries. I was supposed to be gone yesterday, but here I sit imprisoned by choice – curled in a cranny on top of the wall. The wind blows away the sounds of today, and my imagination ‘medievals’ me. The moat is one foot over and 100 feet down. Small plants and moss upholster my throne.” On a visit to Carcassonne, you, too, may feel like a kid with a castle.
Rick Steves of Edmonds (425-771-8303, www.ricksteves.com) is the author of 30 European travel guidebooks including “Europe Through the Back Door” (published by Avalon) and is the host of the public television series “Rick Steves’ Europe,” airing Tuesday through Thursday this week at 7 p.m. on KCTS. This week’s schedule:
Tuesday: Lisbon and the Algarve
Wednesday: Seville and Andalusia
Thursday: Portugal’s Heartland
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