Friendly cafe serves a mean breakfast

  • By Anna Poole / Herald Restaurant Critic
  • Thursday, August 11, 2005 9:00pm
  • LifeGo-See-Do

EVERETT – There’s nothing like a late breakfast on Friday morning to celebrate a day away from the cubicle world. I did just that recently at this downtown Everett eatery, and my delicious experience brightened an already sunny and work-free day.

2512 Colby Ave. Suite A, Everett; 425-303-8012

Specialty: The name says it all

Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday; 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

Price range: inexpensive

Liquor: none

Smoking: nonsmoking

Vegetarian choices: multiple breakfast and lunch selections

Children: selections include pancakes, sandwiches, chicken strips and corn dog

Reservations: recommended for parties of six or more

Disabled accessibility: easy access

Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa

Kate’s Greek and American Deli is a cheery eatery decorated with prints featuring fresh food. The menu, which is copied onto a legal-sized piece of paper, does the same.

Breakfast choices include all our favorites, including hash browns, bacon, ham or sausage, eggs Benedict, omelets, biscuits and gravy, pancakes and French toast. Prices range from $2.25 for a pancake to $7.95 for the omelets and basic breakfast. The most expensive choice is eggs Benedict at $8.25. Splitting one order between two or more plates will cost an additional $1. All the breakfast choices are made with three eggs. If you’re like me, three eggs are too much, so I saved $1 by ordering the house omelet made with two eggs.

The house omelet features fresh spinach, feta cheese and chopped onions and mushrooms. I selected sourdough toast from the bread choices and a cup of coffee. I chose it over the daily specials of a chorizo scramble ($8.95), taco, Hawaiian or Polish scramble ($7.95 each). It’s not that they didn’t sound appetizing, it’s that eggs, spinach and cheese is one of my favorite combinations.

My friendly server, who turned out to be owner Kate Dearman, indicated that, although she’s not of Greek ancestry, she’s studied Greek cuisine. She said the restaurant’s been open for about a year, and we don’t know how it stayed under our review radar for so long.

After the first two bites, I could tell that her studies paid off. My omelet was a round delight of fresh, whole spinach leaves, tasty mushroom and al dente onion bits. The feta cheese added enough saltiness for me without adding table salt after cooking. Despite this being a very good omelet, it was the hash browns that took my breakfast to the next level. They were golden brown and crispy without being mushy or flavorless inside. I swilled it all down with more coffee, stretched and decided this was a very good day.

If you visit for lunch, there will be daily lunch specials like a chicken salad sandwich half for $5.50 or $6.95 for a whole sandwich or French dip for $7.95, plus a daily salad special and soup.

Standing selections include burgers ($5.75 to $7.25), hot sandwiches and dips ($5.75 to $7.25) and soup ($2 for a cup or $2.95 for a bowl) plus Greek choices that include salad ($6.95), gyros, which are Greek sandwiches ($4.75 to $6.25), and sides such as pita bread for $1.35, feta cheese $1.50 and hummus or tzatziki sauce $2.95. Did I mention that baklava is $1.95?

With prices and food this good, a piece of baklava is icing on the filo dough.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.

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