Give holiday steaks a good rubbing

Since we’re partial to meat treatments at our place, a column on rubs, in a recent freebie copy of Cook’s Illustrated, caught my eye.

The writer of the piece, Garth Clingingsmith, experimented with various mixtures and, among other things, concluded, “While a spice rub is meant to be a quick, last-minute addition, most recipes direct you to rub the steak hours in advance.”

To test this advice, he rubbed steaks at various intervals prior to grilling. “I got the best results,” he concluded, “by lighting the coals and then rubbing the steaks.”

How much rub? “Simply sprinkle on enough rub to cover the steak, and gently pat it to adhere,” he says.

If we hustle, there’s still time to lay in any ingredients not already on hand in your kitchen. Assuming, of course, that steaks figure in your Fourth of July or other weekend menu plans.

Before you get to grinding, though, you’ll notice these recipes call for a – get this – “dedicated” spice grinder. I take that to mean a grinder other than the one I use for coffee beans.

Since we have no other, and since I religiously wipe it clean each and every time I grind coffee beans, it’ll just have to do double duty.

Grab your grinder – dedicated or not – and make:

Chile-cumin spice rub

3dried chipotle chilies, stemmed, seeded and cut into rough pieces

2dried ancho chilies, stemmed, seeded and torn into rough pieces

1tablespoon ground cumin

1tablespoon table salt

2teaspoons sugar

Grind chilies in dedicated spice grinder until powdery. Whisk together with remaining ingredients in small bowl until combined. Makes about 1/3 cup.

Cocoa-cumin-allspice rub

1tablespoon unsweetened cocoa

4teaspoons ground cumin