When it comes to apples, certainly there’s this pie thing. As in apple pies and moms and the American way. But to limit the fall crop of apples to pie duty makes about as much sense as telling Linda Ronstadt to stick to rock ‘n’ roll.

In either case, it would be a horrible waste of talent.

Apples are featured in a vast array of desserts, and can be just as delicious in savory dishes, such as a tangy hot slaw or pastry-wrapped appetizers with cheese and herbs.

We’ve become fairly spoiled in the Pacific Northwest. Preparing such tantalizing treats is a snap, because apples thrive here, and there are plenty to go around.

Not just plenty of one variety either. For a number of years, local growers have enjoyed experimenting with a wide selection of apples. So from late August into early winter local farmer’s markets, as well as many of the area’s apple-loving supermarkets, are reliable sources for obtaining some of the less widely distributed varieties, such as criterion, Spartan, Elstar, and Cox’s Orange Pippin.

If you’re wondering which ones are particularly suited for baking, I encourage you to do a little experimenting. Aside from the Red Delicious, which doesn’t fare well in the oven, flavor and texture preferences of baked apples is a personal call. Just about any of the varieties you’ll encounter in this region exhibit worthwhile characteristics when baked.

As far as timing goes, the varieties you’ll be able to obtain now include the Gravenstein, Gala, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Earligold and Sunrise. Among the next in line will be the Jonagold, Melrose, Mutsu, Spartan and Braeburn.

The following recipes are from a beautiful little cookbook I’ve had around for several years, "Apples," by Robert Berkley. As inspiration strikes, and depending on what apples are available when you get around to preparing these recipes, feel free to substitute one variety for another.

Oatmeal pancakes with Jonathan <

BR>

apples and pecans

Combine oatmeal and boiling water. Let stand 5 minutes.

Add egg, flour, baking powder, salt and sugar; mix lightly. Stir in milk, melted butter, apples, and pecans. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a large, flat skillet or on a griddle over medium heat. When the butter begins to crackle, spoon on pancake batter to desired size. Gently flip pancakes when bubbles form around the edges and in the center. Cook for another minute and serve with maple syrup. Yields about 15 3-inch pancakes.

Smoked turkey and Gravenstein apple salad

Arrange watercress, carrot, tomatoes and turkey on 4 salad plates. Heat vegetable oil in a heavy, 1-quart skillet. When hot (about 350 degrees), deep-fry the apples until golden brown. Remove from oil with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain. Arrange on the plates. Serve with the vinaigrette. Yields 4 servings.

Vinaigrette: Whisk together 2 tablespoons cider vinegar, 6 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard and Salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until needed.

Jonagold apple pudding