Gravy retains flavor without fatty drippings

Published 2:49 pm Monday, November 8, 2010

Thanksgiving dinner typically isn’t a particularly virtuous meal, but there are simple ways to lighten the load.

Gravy is a good place to start. Traditionally, gravy is made by browning flour in the fatty drippings left in the pan from the roasted turkey. Clearly not a low-fat technique.

Cornstarch can be used to produce a gravy that is thick and glossy and reheats well. It’s just a matter of using the cornstarch to thicken hot broth or stock (most packaged varieties contain almost no fat), which can be seasoned however you like.

To make a cornstarch gravy, start by making a slurry (blend) of cornstarch and a small amount of cold liquid (generally water or broth). You will need about 1 tablespoon of cornstarch to thicken about 11/2 to 2 cups of gravy.

Don’t add powdered cornstarch directly to a hot liquid; it will clump. The gravy also needs to be whisked briskly to ensure a smooth texture, and must be heated long enough to cook off its starchy flavor.

Arrowroot is another plant-based starch that will thicken liquids without flour or fat. It leaves behind no flavor of its own. Unfortunately, arrowroot-thickened gravy does not reheat well, so don’t use it if you plan on making the gravy ahead of time.

To prepare an arrowroot-thickened gravy, use 2 to 3 teaspoons of arrowroot (prepared as a slurry similar to cornstarch) for each cup of gravy.

Another excellent choice for fat-free thickening is a quick mixing or instant flour, such as Wondra. It makes a smooth gravy, similar to those made with flour and fat, and almost never develops lumps. Use about 2 tablespoons for each cup of liquid to be thickened.

Of course, since fat adds flavor, low-fat gravies can end up bland if you don’t alter your recipe a bit.

This citrus-miso gravy gets a complex, savory character from the addition of sweet white miso paste, which is made from fermented soy beans and can be found at most grocers near where tofu is sold.

Citrus-miso gravy

2teaspoons vegetable or canola oil

1small yellow onion, finely chopped

6tablespoons all-purpose flour

2tablespoons sweet white miso

1/4cup white wine

4cups low-sodium chicken broth

1/2teaspoon orange zest

Ground black pepper, to taste

In a large saute pan over medium-high, heat the oil. Add the onion and saute until caramelized and golden brown, about 12 to 15 minutes.

Add the flour, miso and white wine, then bring to a simmer, whisking and scraping the bottom of the pan. Add 1 cup of the broth and whisk until smooth. Add the remaining broth and the zest. Whisk vigorously, then cook for 5 to 7 minutes, or until thickened. Season with black pepper.

Makes about 4 cups. Nutrition information per 2 tablespoons (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 19 calories; 8 calories from fat (42 percent of total calories); 1 g fat (0 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 2 g carbohydrate; 1 g protein; 0 g fiber; 43 mg sodium.