Here’s the secret to making vinaigrette: whisk, taste, adjust

  • By Jan Roberts-Dominguez Herald Columnist
  • Tuesday, September 16, 2008 4:15pm
  • Life

Two basic ingredients: vinegar and oil. So why is it that creating the perfect vinaigrette often results in such a trial — and error — for some folks?

Taste as you go, that’s the ticket. Adjust, adjust, adjust.

Which brings us to the first rule of thumb when attempting vinaigrette: There are no rules. Not really. There are guidelines and recommendations, but the traditional notion that a vinaigrette begins with an absolute ratio of 1 part vinegar to 3 parts oil is not so hard-and-fast in my book.

Because of all the options for vinegars and oils these days, and because so many of us have reduced the fat in our diets, such a vinaigrette can seem dull and oily.

In our household, my basic vinaigrette is more of a 1 to 1 concoction, but if that seems too zippy for you, consider a 1 to 2 mix.

Secondly, consider experimenting with the plethora of vinegars and oils that are on the market. Rice vinegar, for example, has a more delicate sort of “whang” than wine vinegar.

Balsamic vinegars — depending on the style and quality you’re using — are typically milder because they have been aged, but they still weigh in heavily on the senses, so using too much will overpower a dressing.

Olive oils come in a variety of strengths and characters. And then there are the oils that come with additional flavorings — with everything from chiles and garlic to fruits and nuts. If incorporating them into a vinaigrette, you’ll have to proceed with caution.

Here’s how I develop a vinaigrette:

1. Although some folks shake their mixture in a jar, I prefer to use a wire whisk and a clear container that’s wide enough to accommodate vigorous whisking action and deep enough to contain the splashing such vigorous stirring creates. A clear bowl provides a visual sense of proportions, so if you aren’t into measuring, you can eyeball the situation more accurately.

2. To proceed, glug some vinegar into the bowl. Whisk in the seasonings that you’ve decided to use. Their flavors will develop in the vinegar as you whisk. This is the first point at which you should begin to taste. Not enough salt? This is a good time to add more. Too salty? Glug in some more vinegar. Once you’ve achieved a flavor that you’re satisfied with — keeping in mind that you should be mentally adjusting for the oil, which tames all the flavors — whisk in some oil.

3. Whisk and taste. Adjust. Whisk and taste.

4. Once you’ve achieved what you consider perfection, it’s not a bad idea to dip a leaf of lettuce into the vinaigrette (immediately after you’ve given the mixture a vigorous whisking or all you’ll get is a dose of oil) to see how your creation is going to play out in the salad bowl.

5. The final critical factor is “The Toss.” Wait until right before you’re ready to serve your salad to add the dressing. Give the vinaigrette one last thorough whisk or shake, then drizzle over the salad and toss thoroughly but gently.

I make a lot of this vinaigrette at one time and store it in the refrigerator. Fresh, homemade dressing every night without the fuss. Be sure to check out my Amazing Vinaigrette Base at the end of the recipe.

JAN’S BASIC VINAIGRETTE

4-6cloves garlic, about

1teaspoon salt, about

2cups red or white wine vinegar, about

1tablespoon sugar

1/2teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, about

2cups extra-virgin olive oil (or half olive and half canola), about

Place the garlic cloves on a cutting board and sprinkle them with the salt. With a large chef’s knife, finely mince the garlic by chopping and smashing the garlic and salt on your cutting board (chopping the garlic with the salt is easier than chopping garlic without the salt, because the salt grains help keep the sticky garlic pieces from sticking to the knife).

Scrape up the minced garlic mixture with the edge of your knife and place it in a bowl or 1 quart measuring cup. Whisk in the vinegar, sugar, and black pepper, adjusting the seasonings, then whisk in the oil. Adjust the seasonings, adding more salt or pepper if necessary.

Variations: Whisk in shredded Parmesan cheese to taste, or minced sun-dried tomatoes, or a bit of minced herbs; alter its character even more by adding a bit of cumin powder, or fresh ginger, or a squeeze of fresh lime juice and soy sauce.

Jan’s amazing vinaigrette base: I’ve shared this with you before, but in case you missed it: You know the biggest problem with homemade vinaigrettes? We store them in the refrigerator to keep all the herbs and garlic fresh, but when you go to use them — if you haven’t thought ahead and removed the vinaigrette from the fridge — the olive oil is thick until it gets up to room temperature. So these days I combine all of the ingredients except the oil and store it in the refrigerator. Then, when I’m ready to toss the evening salad, I go ahead and whisk together the appropriate amount of my zesty vinaigrette base with an appropriate glug of my room-temp olive oil. It’s fabulous and so convenient!

Whisking works for most vinaigrettes, but this dressing comes together quickly and mess-free right in your blender.

DARCI’S BASIL DRESSING IN A BLENDER

2tablespoons red wine vinegar

2tablespoons balsamic vinegar

4-5tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh basil

1tablespoon granulated sugar

2cloves garlic, chopped

1/4cup canola oil

1/4cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2teaspoon salt

Fresh ground black pepper

Place the vinegars, basil, sugar, garlic, canola and olive oils, salt and pepper in a blender. Mix in short bursts to combine without chopping the basil too fine. A delightful salad combination for this dressing would be butter lettuce, freshly shredded Parmesan cheese, marinated mushrooms, juicy local tomatoes, and perhaps some ripe wedges of haas avocado.

Makes a scant 1 cup of dressing.

Contact Jan Roberts-Dominguez at www.janrd.com.

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