How to roast Brussels sprouts to crispy goodness

By Leah Eskin / Chicago Tribune

He’s not a fan of vegetables, she confided via encrypted email. Too mushy, he claims. Could I help?

I didn’t know her. I didn’t know him. But it sounded serious. Sometimes a cook has to step out of her kitchen and stare down trouble. I took the case.

I packed my tools: knives, aprons, scale; I packed my technique: high heat. At the airport, I picked them out of the crowd with ease: pale, low on greens.

Back at their place, we worked through pastry, pasta, pan sauce. The room fell silent. I leveled with the guy: You don’t like vegetables. He threw his wife a desperate look. She had turned him in.

Don’t worry, I said. We’ll make ‘em crisp. We gutted a pound of Brussels sprouts and splayed them flat onto the sheet pan. I gave it to him straight: 450 degrees. He looked skeptical but turned the oven up and slid the pan in. He talked about his father, who survived the war on sprouts and never downed another. I turned a cold shoulder and pulled out the hot pan.

The compact cabbages bristled deep brown — brittle outside and buttery within. We speared and bit. She smiled. He smiled. If only his dad could have met the enemy in peacetime.

My work there was done. I packed my knives, but not my vigilance. The cook never knows when trouble may strike. Again.

Crisp sprouts

1 pound fresh Brussels sprouts

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 strips bacon, cut crosswise into thin strips

Vinaigrette, recipe follows

Trim root end of sprouts. Halve sprouts north to south. Heap sprouts onto a baking sheet. Drizzle with oil. Toss with salt. Scatter on bacon. Spread out sprouts, cut sides down.

Roast at 450 degrees, tossing once or twice, until dark and crisp, about 20 minutes.

You can simply sprinkle with a bit of red wine vinegar. Better yet, toss with the sweet/sour vinaigrette. Scrape onto a serving platter. Enjoy. Makes 3 servings (2 cups).

Sweet/sour vinaigrette

Let 2 tablespoons chopped red onion mellow in 1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar. After 20 minutes, whisk with 1½ tablespoons olive oil, ¾ teaspoon sugar, ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes and a little garlic mashed with salt.