Japan Teriyaki & Roll is affordable yet tastes like a million yen

A new restaurant near Lake Stevens has combined elegant dining and fast-service teriyaki to create a simple menu of exceptionally good items at modest prices.

Japan Teriyaki &Roll opened a couple of months ago in the South Lake Plaza, which is across the street from Tom Thumb grocery. Inside, there’s room for about 50 customers. A bar runs the length of the storefront window, and the soda and drink coolers are nearby just like many fast-food places. But the dining room is tastefully decorated with wooden screens and subdued colors. The teak-colored tables and chairs and plates with cherry blossoms are as classy as those in more expensive places.

And the menu’s the same. It’s built around 13 teriyaki dishes with an eight-item sushi menu and four tempura selections. These are mixed to make combination plates and dinner bento boxes. Yakisoba, udon, a few appetizers and three flavors of ice cream complete the menu. This smart approach makes visitors feel as if they’re living large, while the prices aren’t. Everything ranges from $2.99 to $9.99.

On my recent Saturday visit, I was impressed with Japan Teriyaki &Roll’s concept, but I visited because a Herald reader wrote in an e-mail, “The first time I went, I thought the teriyaki sauce was the best I’d ever tasted; it seems to have something extra.” And it does.

This restaurant’s teriyaki sauce doesn’t come off the shelf. It’s house made, and it made my dinner of chicken teriyaki, steamed rice and salad taste like it came from a much more expensive place. Also, the steamed rice was steaming and the salad had that Japanese mayo-soy sauce dressing that’s so delicious.

Before my main dish I also enjoyed an order of unagi (eel) rolls. They were fresh, expertly made, served with slices of white ginger and drizzled with a special sauce for unagi rolls. For those of you who aren’t fond of sushi, there are still plenty of other choices. And if the takeout traffic is any gauge, Japan Teriyaki &Roll has quickly become a hot choice.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs. Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.

Japan Teriyaki &Roll

10519 20th St. SE, No. 2, near Lake Stevens

425-334-2211

Specialty: Japanese cuisine

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday

Vegetarian: Limited selections

Liquor: Beer and wine

Reservations: Recommended for large parties

Price range: Inexpensive (nothing more than $10)

Disabled accessibility: Easy access

Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa

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