Think of “Lidia Cooks From the Heart of Italy” as part cookbook, part travel memoir.
The newest volume from America’s godmother of Italian cooking, Lidia Matticchio Bastianich, captures the intense regionality of the cuisine and the distinct land and seascapes that inspire it.
In 175 recipes that range from easy to involved, the book offers a comprehensive survey of real Italian food. Which means it includes all the expected staples: veal scaloppini, spaghetti with clam sauce, several varieties of risotto, osso bucco, tomato sauce.
Many dishes call for homemade pasta, and the recipes are offered. But high-quality fresh pasta from the supermarket makes a good stand-in for those without the time or machinery to make their own.
Shepherd’s rigatoni
1/4cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2teaspoon pepperoncini or red pepper flakes
1pound sweet Italian sausage (without fennel seeds), casings removed
1pound rigatoni pasta
1/2teaspoon kosher salt
2cups fresh whole-milk ricotta (about 2 pounds), drained overnight
1/2cup grated Parmesan cheese (preferably Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano)
1/2cup loosely packed fresh basil, shredded
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium-high, heat the olive oil. Add the red pepper flakes and let them toast for several seconds. Crumble the sausage into the skillet, breaking it into small clumps.
Cook the sausage, breaking up any clumps, until well browned and crispy, about 10 minutes.
While the sausage cooks, add the pasta to the boiling water.
When the sausage is browned and crisp, ladle about 1/2cup of the pasta cooking water into the skillet to deglaze the pan. Be sure to stir the sausage and scrape up any bits off the bottom of the pan. Stir in the salt.
When the pasta is al dente, drain it then add to the skillet. Toss the pasta and sausage, then remove from the heat and stir in the ricotta and Parmesan cheeses. Scatter the basil on top, then toss well.
Makes 6 servings. Per serving: 659 calories; 274 calories from fat; 30 g fat (12 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 72 mg cholesterol; 59 g carbohydrate; 35 g protein; 1 g fiber; 827 mg sodium.
Recipe from Lidia Matticchio Bastianich’s “Lidia Cooks From the Heart of Italy”
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