Ah, the allure of the fermented grape and the yin and yang of it all. In my years in the wine business, witnessing the magnetic appeal of wine has been as fascinating to me as the commodity itself. But the beverage carries an immense amount of baggage, often repelling average American consumers.
What causes some people to shy away from wine are mainly misconceptions, preconceived notions of pretense and a bit of fear for the unknown. The effect of snobs making wine aloof, unapproachable and somewhat condescending has only added to these illusions.
The bottle battle waged every day by producers, distributors, importers, restaurateurs and retailers to demystify wine and give an impression of inclusion rather than exclusion has intensified over the past few decades, particularly here in Washington. It was my intention more than seven years ago to join that fight and give my hardworking hometown access to fine wines, weaving irreverence and whimsy into a demystification process. I’m sure that if I’d started a wine shop with my nose in the air and a pinky out, I’d probably be picnicking with the fishes somewhere west of the jetty.
Ironically, many of the same things that cause some people to view wine a little “sideways” also create an attraction for others. The perception of insurmountable complexity that surrounds the world of wine is viewed as a challenge and an opportunity to expand a knowledge base. The world of wine is also tailor-made for collectors. Once the hook is in place or the bug is caught, the overflowing wine cellar isn’t far behind.
I have a friend who as a kid collected baseball cards and went on as an adult to collect pins on a map indicating mountains he had climbed. And then he had the fateful opportunity to sample the right wine, discover the virtually limitless expanse of personal exploration through collection and, BAM! – he was hooked and began a relentless quest for the best wine, amassing a world-class, highly envied cellar. He even volunteered to work for wine at the local wine shop.
While I’m on this tangent, let me share another observation. If so inclined and sufficiently motivated, an average person can dabble in or even collect the world’s best wines. You can’t say that about cars, real estate, art, fashion, jewelry, etc., unless you founded a computer software empire. And it happens that another simple pleasure is wine’s natural companion – food. I guess that’s why many of life’s celebrations are met with a great meal and a special bottle of wine.
Which brings me back to my biggest gripe about this fermented grape juice. It just has to find a way to get over itself and get out of its own way. Wine should be universally accepted, as it is in most parts of Europe, as a staple and a way of life. Wine has been described as “liquid sunshine,” “bottled earth,” “art in a bottle” and simply “food for the soul.” Nowhere have I heard of it referred to as “liquid pretentiousness” or “snobbery in a bottle.”
Just enjoy wine for what it is. Start a cellar if you want and have fun collecting and learning about all the regions and styles of wine, but the whole guarded elitism and mystery thing has got to go.
The basic, fundamental process of converting natural grape sugars into alcohol through fermentation is quite simple and has been around since before recorded history. The pretentiousness and snobbery that can be associated with wine is a relatively modern phenomenon brought on by the vastness of the industry and the social and economic assumptions surrounding it. The best way to say “bunk” to pompousness in wine is to embrace it as a healthy part of life and change things from the inside.
Of course, these are just a few cork-dork observations. I could be wrong.
Jeff Wicklund can be reached at 425-737-2600, or wick@colbyhospitality.com.
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