Q I’m in the market for a rolling pin. What options are available in terms of style and material?
A: Rolling pins fall into two categories: those with handles and those without. Classically designed American pins have handles fitted with ball bearings. Handle-free models, called French pins, are uniform in diameter or taper at the ends.
The French style offers more hands-on control and greater mobility when rolling dough and is generally preferred by professional cooks.
In terms of material, wooden pins are reliable and the most common. The best are made from a hardwood, such as maple or beech; those made of pine and other softwoods are effective but dent easily and can pit the dough.
Marble pins are pricier but have an added benefit: The stone (especially when chilled beforehand) helps the dough stay cool and minimizes sticking, which is key when working with pastry.
Metal and silicone versions, also touted for their nonstick properties, are fine options. But they tend to weigh less and may require more muscle to roll dough.
Q: My aluminum and steel pots dry with spots, so they never look clean. What should I do differently?
A: The best way to keep pots spot-free depends on the material. Stainless steel can be polished using a soft cloth and white vinegar or lemon juice. Don’t soak the pots because the surface can pit.
When you wash the pots, dry them with a towel; don’t set them out to air-dry.
To remove dark spots from aluminum, which may be caused by hard water, rub a nylon pad along the grain of the metal as it’s drying. If that doesn’t work, mix 2 tablespoons of cream of tartar and 1 quart of water in the pot, and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.
Empty the pot. When it’s cool, scour with the nylon pad, or use a cloth and a mild cleanser.
Q: I broke a crystal vase that had been in my family for decades. How do I find a similar, if not exact, piece?
A: “If the vase is antique — 100-plus years old — it will be difficult to find a replacement that matches it exactly,” says Don Browne, a manager at edish.com, which provides a china- and crystal-matching service.
A century ago, few crystal makers marked their pieces with the company name, so your best bet is to show a photograph of the vase (or the largest broken pieces) to an antiques dealer who specializes in crystal.
He will tell you where it was likely produced and by whom. If it was made in quantity, you may even find a replica. If the vase is vintage but not antique (20 to 80 years old), tracking down a replacement will be a little easier.
“By the 1920s and 1930s, many companies used a manufacturer’s mark,” Browne says. To decipher it, look through guides to 20th-century glassmakers, available in libraries and bookstores.
“With this information in hand, you can then ask a china and crystal matcher or an antiques dealer for your piece,” he says.
China matchers on the Internet, such as edish.com, are a great resource; most don’t charge for an identification. Send a photo of the pattern and mark on the piece. Even if there’s no mark, an expert should be able to match the vase.
“A good strategy is to leave a request with any reputable matcher or dealer,” Browne says.
“Your request improves the chance that a matcher will take it into inventory and will consequently increase your chances of getting the piece you need.”
Address questions to Ask Martha, care of Letters Department, Martha Stewart Living, 601 W. 26th St., Ninth floor, New York, NY 10001. Send e-mail to mslletters@marthastewart.com.
&Copy; 2010 Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, Inc.
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