MILL CREEK — Some may not like the setting for the Wild Vine Bistro, a new family-run restaurant just south of Mill Creek.
They’ll complain about the view. Large glass panes overlook a parking lot and the bright lights of a Bartell Drug Store.
Finding good food at fair prices with friendly service is the hallmark of a neighborhood joint.
It’s true, the small restaurant faces a strip mall, but the location and accessibility should add to its popularity.
Owner Laura Bliven said the restaurant is the fulfillment of her long-held dreams. She welcomes guests on busy nights and has two daughters working the floor.
The Saturday night I ate there with a friend we were served by one of the daughters. The chef, Ian West, is an in-law.
Guests, by extension, get the feel they’re being treated like family.
The room features dark wood paneling with tables dressed in green linen. About a dozen tables fill the front of the restaurant, with nearly as many taking up the bar in the back.
Diners can enjoy free live music almost nightly.
As their business grows, I wouldn’t be surprised if the space now dedicated to bands is used instead for extra tables.
Wild Vine has a decidedly Italian flavor and offers familiar dishes: antipasto ($11), Caesar salad ($6 or $8) and Bolognese pasta ($13). There’s also a nice blend of Pacific Northwest favorites.
We split the calamari fritti ($12), which came lightly battered with a slightly spicy arrabbiata sauce for dipping. The sauce was similar to marinara but had a nice kick.
Fried calamari is a barroom staple these days. I thought Wild Vine’s were a step above what you typically find, the batter was flaky and crisp, and the meat had a tender chew.
Next we split the Bistro Speciale ($12), an entree-size salad. It featured freshly grilled large shrimp, citrus wedges, goat cheese and fresh baby lettuce tossed in a pomegranate vinaigrette.
For dinner, my friend ordered the Zuppa di Pesce ($15), a hearty bowl full of a mixture of nicely cooked seafood in a fennel-scented tomato broth.
I opted for grilled salmon ($20) but asked for potatoes instead of rice pilaf. The generous filet came with a ribbon of balsamic glaze. The potatoes, prepared au gratin in a creamy sauce, were a bit cold. Still, there was plenty for leftovers.
Other options included good-looking pasta dishes. A co-worker of mine raved about the wild mushroom risotto ($12), and the meat dishes, including two specials, looked delicious. We were one of the few tables not to order a steak.
Wild Vine offers a full bar and an impressive wine list. Many times restaurants skimp on wines offered by the glass, but Wild Vine’s selection was robust, and the wine served good, although a bit pricey at $8.
Our waitress persuaded us to try the desserts, and I’m so glad she did.
My friend tried a dark chocolate hazelnut torte, and I chose the apple-caramel bread pudding (both $6). The portions were big enough to share and good enough to finish off without a trace.
It would have been a more perfect night had our decaf coffee been better. I should have ordered another glass of wine instead.
By the way tables were turning over the night we ate there, I wouldn’t be surprised if it soon becomes hard to land a table at Wild Vine. I’d be sure to book ahead.
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