Off the fairway

ARLINGTON -There’s a new chef at Eagle’s Nest Grill, which is the restaurant on the Gleneagle Golf Course.

According to my server, Chef Leonard Hull moved from the fine dining restaurant at the new Tulalip Casino to the golf course a few weeks ago, and compliments from customers have increased.

Unfortunately, I hadn’t dined at Eagle’s Nest Grill before the change, so I can’t compare the food. But my Friday night dinner of clam chowder, prime rib, baked potato and orange-ginger glazed carrots was expertly prepared.

The clam chowder was thick with clams and potatoes. The prime rib was exactly as I ordered it and came with a hearty serving of horseradish sauce and au jus. I had no complaints about the ample baked potato with butter and sour cream on the side, just like I want it. The glazed carrots were a delightful surprise because I had expected the usual steamed-and-buttered preparation.

Guests at nearby tables in the cozy dining room enjoyed sandwiches and more prime rib, which is the most popular dish, my server said. Others sat on the deck that overlooks the green, relishing the warm evening and sunset over a before-dinner drink.

It was easy to see why customers are praising the chef, and my meal indicated that the restaurant’s back-of-the-house operation is staying in the fairway.

But the staff bogeyed the service.

I selected a table for four in the corner so I could watch the dining room action. Although I was alone and not expecting others to join me, the other three place settings remained on my table throughout my dinner.

My server came from the kitchen with my order, but instead of delivering it to my table, she stopped to talk to a regular at the bar while my food cooled at the end of her up-stretched arm; then, she set my dinner plate on top of the cellophane-wrapped crackers at the edge of my service area.

Somewhere along the way, my breadbasket disappeared and then a server tried to take my bread plate away before my dinner arrived.

I ordered a glass of wine to go with my main dish but it didn’t arrive until about halfway through my meal. When my server checked to see if I was “doing all right” I mentioned that I didn’t seem to have any wine. Unfortunately, the wine was hot, as if it had sat next to the oven vent all night, making it unpalatable.

Mark Twain said golf is a good walk spoiled. For me, the service spoiled this good meal.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Email Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.

Eagle’s Nest Grill

Gleneagle Golf Course, 7619 E Country Club Drive, Arlington; 360-435-6713

Specialty: American favorites

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday

Price range: inexpensive to moderate

Liquor: full bar

Smoking: permitted on the deck

Reservations: recommended for parties of six or more

Disabled accessibility: easy access

Credit cards: American Express, Discover, Master Card, Visa

Eagle’s Nest Grill