In 1839, the artist Paul Cezanne was born in Aix-en-Provence, a town in southernmost France. The post-Impressionist artist died unappreciated and virtually unknown in 1906. But 100 years later, the town of Aix (pronounced “X”) is celebrating Cezanne’s centenary with special exhibits and sights. In 2006, Aix marks the spot for Cezanne fans.
When he was alive, Cezanne had a tough time of it. He worked alone, lived alone and died alone, ignored by all but a few revolutionary young artists who understood his efforts. His brush was a blunt instrument. With it, he’d bludgeon reality into submission, drag it across a canvas, and leave it there to dry.
Where the Impressionists built a figure out of a mosaic of individual brushstrokes, Cezanne used blocks of paint to give his subjects a more solid, geometrical shape. He painted some scenes with hefty chunks of color, which seem to form little “cubes.” It’s no coincidence that Cezanne’s experiments in reducing forms to cubes influenced the Cubists.
Compared to the color of Monet, the warmth of Renoir, and the passion of van Gogh, Cezanne’s paintings of bowls of fruit and landscapes can seem a little too calm. But with his distinct, influential style, Cezanne was the artist who brought Impressionism into the 20th century. He’s often called the first modern painter.
Cezanne studied law at Aix’s university. He produced most of his paintings in and around Aix, even though this conservative town didn’t understand him or his art. Wealthy Aix, a town filled with 137,000 people today, has always been a place to live well and look good. Aix’s main drag, called cours Mirabeau, was designed for the rich and famous to strut their fancy stuff. The street survives much as it always has, as a single lane for traffic with a very wide pedestrian promenade, shaded by trees and lined by 17th- and 18th-century mansions, the winter homes of the nobility.
Normally, you would find no actual Cezanne artwork in Aix, but in 2006, you can see a large exhibition of his work, or stop into several “Cezannian sites.” The artist’s home and gardens, Jas de Bouffan, are open to the public this year. Fans of the artist will also want to pick up the “In the Footsteps of Cezanne” self-guided-tour flier at Aix’s tourist information office, and follow the bronze pavement markers around town.
One of the main Cezanne sights is his last studio, Atelier Cezanne, which is preserved as it was when he died. It’s long been open to the public. While there is no art here, his tools and personal belongings make it interesting for enthusiasts (www.atelier-cezanne.com).
The Granet Museum (Musee Granet), Aix’s top art gallery, has reopened for 2006 in order to host a grand exhibition of Cezanne’s works. As part of this year’s Cezanne-o-rama, 110 works – 80 oils and 30 watercolors – are on display. The paintings come to Aix from museums and private collections around the world, with help and coordination from the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C. (To get the latest, check out www.cezanne-2006.com.)
The rest of Aix-en-Provence can be seen in an hour’s stroll from the train station. Unlike in much of Provence, there’s not an ancient Roman obligatory sight to see. Instead, consider spending the rest of your day in Aix’s old town. Pop into Aux Deux Garons restaurant, located on cours Mirabeau, which was once frequented by Cezanne.
Spring for a meal in the restaurant’s beautiful interior. While dining where the artist did may not make you a pro with a palette, it’ll delight your palate as you visit Aix-en-Provence.
Rick Steves of Edmonds (425-771-8303, www.ricksteves.com) is the author of 30 European travel guidebooks, including “Europe Through the Back Door.” He hosts a public radio show, “Travel with Rick Steves” (Saturdays at 2 p.m. on KUOW 94.9 FM) and the public television series “Rick Steves’ Europe” on KCTS, airing some weeknights at 7 p.m. This week’s schedule:
Friday: The Best of West Ireland: Dingle, Galway and the Aran Islands
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