PF Chang’s packs them in

LYNNWOOD – The first word that comes to mind after visiting PF Chang’s China Bistro in the Alderwood mall is “reservations.”

I visited at 7 p.m. on a recent Friday and the wait for a table was 21/2 hours without a reservation, which I didn’t have. I decided against the wait but returned Sunday around 1 p.m., again without a reservation. The wait was a mere hour and 45 minutes. When I left, the line stretched out the door and the wait was more than two hours.

I wanted to see if the food and service quality held up because Herald readers described the food as “great” and Herald community columnist Kristi O’Harran wrote in an e-mail to me “… delicious. Big praise from picky me.” (Her wait, on a weeknight, was about 15 minutes.)

On Sunday afternoon, I opted for the bar, which is first-come, first-served and offers the complete menu. The couple ahead of me had a pager to alert them when their table was ready but landed seats at the bar before the buzzer sounded. I had the empty seat next to them after about a 10-minute wait.

My salt-and-pepper calamari ($6.95) arrived first and the couple to my left wanted to know what I had ordered. It’s lightly battered calamari strips deep-fried and tossed with scallions. They’re served with a dish of Kosher salt and coarse black pepper for dipping. I don’t understand how salt and pepper take this dish to a higher level, but they do. I shared a few strips with the couple next to me and they reciprocated by giving me one of their crab wontons ($6.95). The calamari and wontons come with a chili-based sauce that adds an extra dimension to the appetizers. Yet, the calamari and the crab- and cream cheese-stuffed wontons were delicious as is.

My new friends and dining companions were a wresting referee who’s getting into shape for the upcoming season and lives in Lynnwood, and a Stanwood resident. They’ve eaten at PF Chang’s before and gave the food high praise. To keep the calorie content low, they ordered mostly vegetable dishes that included Sichuan-style asparagus, which is stir-fried in a chili sauce ($5.95), and garlic snap peas ($4.95). Like their previous visits, they said everything was excellent.

For athletes, the PF Chang’s China Bistro menu offers a training table menu that focuses on the dietary needs of athletes and promotes an Arizona marathon, which is a special interest of the owner. This section of the menu, designed by Olympic gold medalist Frank Shorter and other well-known athletes, lists the calories, proteins, carbohydrates and fat for each of the 14 dishes.

The woman on my right at the bar, who was from Edmonds, ordered the vegetable dumplings ($4.95). They come steamed or fried. She selected fried, added an order of complimentary brown rice and enjoyed every bite. There are six other vegetarian selections ($4.95 to $6.59) besides the garlic snap peas and Sichuan-style long beans or asparagus.

Our server behind the bar, who kept everything flowing despite the crowd, indicated that the lettuce wraps ($6.95) and the Mongolian beef ($12.25) are the two most popular dishes. I selected the beef a la Sichuan ($11.25), which is a spicy dish, and the double pan-fried noodles with pork ($10.95). Both were as scrumptious as everyone said they would be.

The only distractions to my afternoon meal were the noise level from the crowd and the rock music that filled the dining room and bar area. And, of course, the wait for a table when arriving without a reservation.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Anna Poole: features@heraldnet.com.

PF Chang’s China Bistro

3000 184th St., Lynnwood; 425-921-2100; www.pfchangs.comSpecialty: Chinese cuisine

Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday

Price range: moderate to expensive

Liquor: full bar

Smoking: nonsmoking

Reservations: highly recommended

Disabled accessibility: no apparent barriers

Credit cards: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

PF Chang’s China Bistro

3000 184th St., Lynnwood; 425-921-2100; www.pfchangs.com