Put that dehydrator to work on a batch of fruit leather

My theory regarding trail food is simple: Anything considered edible at the beginning of a hike will be downright exquisite eight miles in.

Fruit leather is the perfect case in point. Something that makes no bones about being on the chewy side of vinyl floor covering, and tastes good too. Particularly, like I said, deep into the wilderness where that fresh hit of pure fruity flavor is so amazingly satisfying.

But fruit leather also makes a healthy and mess-free snack back in civilization. So, as the harvest kicks into high gear, why not designate some of the treasured bounty to the fun and delicious activity of making fruit leather?

For those of you who have avoided food preservation because of the multiple and concise steps involved to ensure success, fruit leather would be right up your alley. There’s plenty of room for experimenting, with little risk of placing the family’s health in jeopardy.

In fact, there are only three elements involved in making fruit leather:

* A good supply of fruit.

* A method of turning the fruit into puree.

* A way to dry the puree.

I’m inclined to address the last point first since it’s the deal-breaker in your decision on whether or not to tackle the activity at all.

You can certainly get by without purchasing a food dehydrator. Sun drying works just fine this time of year. But it does take longer, and there are all those bugs and curious children to contend with.

Or you could use your oven, as long as it can maintain a steady, and low temperature (130 degrees is desirable). But wait a minute, you’d be heating up your kitchen at a time of year when most of us incorporate cold food into our menus just to avoid that.

So let’s talk food dehydrators. This is the best time of year to shop around for one because retailers aren’t stupid; they know when to stock stuff you’re in the market for. Prices and quality will vary. Here are some basic guidelines:

Make sure the unit carries the Underwriter’s Laboratory (UL) seal.

Designs vary; some models are round, with stackable trays, allowing you to add more trays, if needed, which I find to be an attractive feature; others are square, with shelves that pull out.

Light bulbs are not considered an efficient heat source.

Besides having a heating element, there should be a fan or blower to circulate heated air evenly over all of the food.

Is it relatively quiet? You’ll be operating your dehydrator for several hours at a time in the garage or kitchen, or on the deck, so make sure you plug it in at the store to evaluate if the level of noise is acceptable.

It should have a thermostat so you can have an accurate way to regulate the temperature. The thermostat should have a range of adjustment from 85 degrees to 160 degrees. Additionally, the thermostat should be positioned in such a way that it is measuring the temperature just before the air actually reaches the food.

The drying trays should be made of food grade material. This may seem like a no-brainer, but it never hurts to check; food-safe plastic such as polypropylene, teflon-coated fiberglass, or stainless steel screens are recommended. Avoid using copper, aluminum or galvanized metal screening.

Are the drying trays: replaceable; made from a material that is easy to clean; constructed in a manner that will allow air circulation on all sides of the food.

Making fruit leather

There are numerous methods for preparing fruit leather, but basically, you’re creating a puree from the fruit, spreading it onto trays, then drying it.

1. Make the fruit puree. Fresh fruit purees can be prepared by either the cooked or uncooked method. Soft fruits, such as berries, pears and grapes, don’t need to be cooked prior to turning into a puree; firmer fruits, such as apricots, peaches and plums, must be softened before being pureed..

Uncooked method: Puree pieces of raw, soft fruit in a blender or food processor. Press the puree through a strainer to remove seeds, if desired. Fruits that are soft enough to use in the uncooked method: berries (blueberries, strawberries, blackberries, Marionberries, raspberries, Loganberries), pears, grapes

Cooked method: Place pieces of fruit in a heavy-bottomed pot with just enough water to create a bit of moisture, about 1/2 inch or so. Cover and cook until the fruit is just tender (keep an eye on the water level in case you need to add a bit more during cooking). Remove from heat, cool, and puree in blender. Firm fruits that should be cooked before pureeing are apples, apricots, cherries, peaches, nectarines, plums,

2. Spread the fruit puree onto prepared trays or baking sheets. If you are using a dehydrator, prepare the drying trays according to manufacturers directions. If you are using your oven, line 12-by-17-inch shallow pans with plastic wrap (it won’t melt at the low temperature setting).

Each pan will hold 2 cups of puree. Spread the puree in a thin, even layer (1/8- to 1/4-inch thick for a paper-thin finished product; about C\,-inch thick for a more substantial leather);

3. Dry the fruit puree in the food dehydrator or in a slow oven. If using a food dehydrator, follow the manufacturer’s directions, setting the thermostat at 135 to 140 degrees. Set your oven thermostat at 135 to 140 degrees. Every hour or two, rotate the trays to promote even drying.

For electric and gas oven drying, oven racks should be placed at least 2 inches apart with at least 3 inches of clearance at the top and bottom of the oven. Set the oven to the lowest setting and prop the door open with a potholder or stick to let moisture escape.

Since the temperature should be maintained at no higher than 140 degrees during the drying, an oven thermometer should be used. Turn and rotate the trays each hour or two. Convection ovens can also be used (some manufacturers even offer accessory drying racks). Follow manufacturer guidelines.

Thin layers of fruit puree will dry in 4 to 8 hours; thicker layers will take about 17 to 20 hours.

To test for doneness, lift up the sheet of leather slowly and check the bottom. If it’s ripply, or if any of the puree clings to the sheet, it isn’t done yet.

3. Store the fruit leather. Roll up whole sheets in plastic wrap, or cut into strips and store in zip-lock bags. The fruit leather can be stored at room temperature if it is thoroughly dried. If not, store it in the freezer or it will eventually mold.

Additional tips

Fruit puree should have the consistency of thick applesauce. If it’s too thin, it will take too long to dry, so you should simmer it gently on a medium-high burner until it’s reduced to the correct thickness. Grape puree definitely needs to be reduced to a thicker consistency.

And speaking of applesauce … for a balance in flavor and texture, combine 1 part fruit puree (of whatever fruit you’re using), with 3 parts apple puree (simmer cored-and-quartered apples in about an inch of water until soft, puree in blender or food processor, and strain to remove skins).

I learned this trick from the late Lester Rue, who was an Oregon State University master food preserver. He developed the process and called it “Fruit Leather with Apple Extender.” It’s a dandy trick; the applesauce seems to bring out the flavor of whatever fruit it’s paired up with and brings a beautiful shine and sleek texture to the leather.

For a subtle flavor enhancer, add a small amount of vanilla or almond extract to the purees just before spreading the puree on drying trays.

Whether drying in a dehydrator or the oven, remember to rearrange the trays every hour or so, if possible, so the leather will dry evenly.

Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com