Router technique makes false ceiling beams look real

A wise old architect once told us that when we design or remodel a home, we should ensure that walls, ceilings and floors consist of several levels or planes — lots of recesses (ins), protrusions (outs) and corners.

We were told that such a practice would result in interesting shadow lines that can make a home look more interesting and dynamic, and, if done properly, far more valuable.

Your ceiling is one of the “planes” in your home that you can easily alter without a great deal of expense. We suggest “beams with a twist.” Not twisted beams. Beams that are different, interesting, easy to build and expensive-looking.

In the past, the standard way to create a false beam for a ceiling was to nail three pieces of clear, dry 1-by wood together to create a hollow shape that resembles a timber. The two exposed corner joints were a problem. Should they be butt-joined, lap-joined or mitered?

It never really made much difference which of these assembly techniques was used. A box-beam (false beam) usually looks exactly like what it is — a fake. This is particularly true when the joints can be detected.

We have discovered an interesting way to hide the joints. We call it “sculpting.” You’ll need a router. Otherwise, our box beam is made just the same as all the others: from three pieces of wood (a bottom and two sides).

Here’s how:

First, use a router to shape both edges of the bottom piece. An “ogee” cut would be nice.

Next, glue and nail the routed bottom piece to the sides. On a large table, place the sides on edge.

Next, place the bottom piece (routed face up) atop the two side panels.

Instead of using a common butt joint, offset the side pieces about an eighth of an inch. This will make the beam about a quarter of an inch wider than with other methods.

It is nearly impossible to spot a puttied joint when it is offset against a routed edge. This is because the offset ends up looking like part of the routed edge.

When this technique is used the downward facing edges of both side panels are concealed. The small portion that is exposed at each joint exists at an inside corner. Since inside corners are almost always laden with shadows the result is a camouflaged connection.

Once the routing has been performed, assemble the three pieces with lots of glue and nails. Don’t forget the clamps. No one will ever know that your box beams aren’t real, solid timbers.

By the way, the chic thing these days is to run the box beams in two directions sort of like a tic-tac-toe board. Three- and four-foot square patterns are very popular. If you want the box beams in your ceiling to cross in this fashion there is a trick.

First, put up all the beams that go in one direction. The perpendicular beams will have to be ripped to a shallower height. Thus, the routed edge of the second set of beams will die into the flat side of the first set of beams. Paint or stain and varnish.

For tips from James and Morris Carey, go to www.onthehouse.com or call the listener hot line, 800-737-2474, ext. 59. The Careys are also on KRKO (1380-AM) from 6 to 10 a.m. every Saturday.