Sausage know-how from Hempler family

  • By Judyrae Kruse / Herald Columnist
  • Tuesday, January 9, 2007 9:00pm
  • Life

With only one exception, that being the precious, just born Dec. 21, undeniably incredible and awesome Tanner Kruse, all of the other Kruse men are unanimous in their extreme fondness for franks, brats and even plain old hot dogs. And, no exception here, they’d eat them seven days out of seven, given the chance. More than happily, you could even say ecstatically. In fact, these guys love this food category so much, I’m kind of surprised they still look like people, not sausages.

And I really have no doubts about Tanner, either. The minute he has toofies, the little dude will be lined up right alongside his grandad Wayne, daddy Murray, uncle Morgan and cousins Keegan and Conner. I just know it.

That being the case for sure, it’s a lucky thing his mama Lisa, aunt Michelle and Gram can keep everybody fed up by fixing various types of sausage all winter long in the kitchen, until the fellas can take over at the barbecue grill during the summer.

Speaking of the cooking process, though, is there actually a best way? You better believe it, and I didn’t waste a single second snapping up an offer from Lynnwood Forum reader/helper-outer Kathy Parker to share her insight on this subject.

So get ready for her cookery techniques and sausage expertise, seasoned with a nice helping of both background and nostalgia.

“The Aug. 23 Herald Food page article titled “Hot Diggety-Dog’ prompted thoughts on the best way to prepare hot dogs for optimal eating,” she writes.

“The hot dog is one of those foods that has a place in a variety of family and social settings. Summer picnics are now over and meals have moved indoors where quick meal preparations for busy families are necessary. But dogs are also great for late-season tailgating parties, winter campouts and at stadium sports events. The hot dog, frankfurter, wiener or brats (bratwurst) are all a sausage meant to be eaten hot or warmed up. Thus, in Germany, one refers to it as heisses wurstchens (hot small sausage), and now we call it the hot dog. Bratwurst and weiswurst are sausage products that are to be grilled, fried, baked, barbecued or roasted to cook them through, yet keep them moist and flavorful. One needs to remember to keep any of these products refrigerated until preparing for eating.”

Kathy now takes us on a jog back in time, telling us, “In reading the diggety dog article, I was again reminded of my family’s heritage with the meat industry and sausage making.

“My father immigrated to this country from Germany in 1928. When he arrived in New York, he had one suit, a trade apron (which I still have), one set of trade knives, his Metzger trade certification and a train ticket to Everett. A cousin sponsored him and set him up to work with a friend in Port Angeles.

“In 1934, he went back to Germany to marry his fiance. They had waited the six years because of the economic problems of the early 1930s in our country and, during this period, Dad proudly obtained his U.S. citizenship. Due to the political situation in their homeland, he and my mother crossed the ocean by ship (the Bremen) to America and then traveled by train to the West Coast.

“Soon after they arrived, my father and his partner, Otto Hahnel, started the B.B. Meat and Sausage company in late 1934 in Bellingham. The company is still in operation and is known today as Hempler’s, under the management of my brother, Richard Hempler, in Ferndale. Hempler hams and bacon are the best to be found. And, an interesting fact is that, in all our humble beginnings, we were neighbors with the Haggen family (of the Haggen’s and Top Foods grocery stores).”

Continuing, Kathy says, “Back in the 1940s, the small mom-and-pop grocery stores were the only stores open on Sundays. On hot picnic days, they would run out of our products, and Dad would take us along to the little stores in Whatcom and Skagit counties to make deliveries. There was always a hint given by Dad on how to prepare hot dogs for optimum flavor.”

Now, “Dad’s” advice is passed along to us by Kathy:

“In preparing hot dogs for consumption, there are several methods for a top-quality hot dog. The hot dog, wiener, frank and some specialty sausages have been processed and smoked and need only to be heated through. Two methods will be suggested to achieve peak flavor.

For those still in their casings: Place the product in a pan of cold water that is large enough to hold the number of hot dogs being heated. There should be room enough for water to cover the product and allow for water to just come to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat source and allow the hot dogs to remain in the hot water for about 10 to 12 minutes.

The idea is to heat the hot dogs through and not have the skin split. Once the skin splits, moisture and flavor are lost and the hot dog dries out and shrivels. When cooked right, the hot dog will have a “snap’ when you bite into it.

Second hot dog method: Franks, hot dogs (without skins) and wieners may also be put into a pan of boiling water; make sure there is enough water to cover the product and immediately remove the pan from heat and allow the product to heat through for about 12 minutes. This works well for skinless hot dogs.

Brats: Brats should be cooked in a small amount of fat just enough to brown on both sides and heat through. Then add a small amount of water to the pan and cover with a lid, turn heat to medium and be careful not to let the product skins stick to the bottom of the pan during cooking, as this can cause the skins to break. Cook until the brats are heated through with no pink juices flowing.

“They may be served with or without a bun and dressed with your favorite condiments. Probably the most favorite way to prepare sausage products is to grill them on an indoor or outdoor grill. The heat or flames should not be so hot as to burn or char the outer skin. The brat should be moist and have a snap when one bites into it.”

Now then. I think you should know why Kathy explains, “I only used the Hempler name and family history because you asked.” And ask I certainly did, because I knew we’d all find it interesting and appealing. So there. Winding up, she adds, “It is a great product and great story, and there is more.”

The next Forum will appear in Friday’s Time Out section, where you will find a segment from that “more” Kathy just mentioned.

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