I have been gardening for many years, and, looking back, I am surprised at the evolution that has occurred in my techniques and methods.
In one of my first attempts at starting seeds, I sowed them in handmade wooden flats in my basement at Turkey Hill and jerry-rigged a dozen or so fluorescent “gro” lights over the tables.
Then I set the lights on timers so the emerging seedlings would have sufficient “daylight” to grow into plants large and healthy enough to be replanted into the garden after the danger of frost had passed. This method worked, but I knew it could be improved.
In a refinement, I attached a small lean-to greenhouse to my outdoor kitchen. There I grew tomatoes, cabbages, eggplants and peppers in small grow pots made of compressed peat.
Daylight certainly made a difference to the sturdiness of the plants. They fared just a bit better than my basement-grown seedlings after they were set out into the fertile garden soil.
Four years ago, when I moved to my farm in Bedford, N.Y., I built a large glass house in which I could grow almost everything I wanted for the property’s vegetable and flower beds. Now I could work on an almost-professional level.
I made it a real priority to visit as many growers as possible: I wanted to learn how to maximize productivity while becoming more economical, more green and more sensible in my methodology.
One visit that turned out to be extremely fortuitous was to Eliot Coleman, a gardener and vegetable grower in Maine. For years he had been experimenting with radical techniques, attempting to grow a wide assortment of vegetables year-round, directly in the ground, with very little artificial heat.
His attempts resulted in a plethora of extraordinary vegetables, ranging from root crops to aboveground vine crops, all of which had amazing flavor, few maladies and unusually vigorous root development. Coleman was so enthusiastic about sharing his knowledge that my helpers and I have had almost 100 percent success with every variety of seed we have tried.
Following Coleman’s recommendations, we purchased soil-block shapers, seed-starting mix, starter soils and sterile compost mixes. To create blocks for the seeds, we combine seed-starting mix with water in a plastic tub, adding water until the mix is soaked thoroughly — almost dripping. Then the soil-block maker is plunged in; a medium-sized one makes four blocks at a time.
I own sturdy soil-block makers in three sizes, and we’ve had fun assembling blocks for different plants: big blocks for seedlings that are quite large when set outside (such as peppers, artichokes and tomatoes); medium blocks for all the brassicas (such as broccoli and cabbage); and small blocks for many of the flowers I grow in the flower beds and as companion plants in the vegetable garden (including campanula and nasturtiums).
We place the blocks in reusable plastic trays, which aren’t susceptible to mold. When the time comes, each plant can be lifted out and then plunked into the garden with little of the root disturbance that occurs when you remove a seedling from a flat.
I am very pleased with the economy of this new method — a wonderful solution to the challenge of starting plants from seed.
For more seed-starting tips and techniques, go to martha stewart.com/seed-starting.
Buying seeds
My favorite Internet sources for vegetable and flower seeds:
Johnny’s Selected Seeds, johnnyseeds.com
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, rareseeds.com
Seed Savers Exchange, seedsavers.org
Seeds of Change, seedsofchange.com
John Scheepers, kitchengardenseeds.com
Storing seeds
Be sure to store seeds properly so the greatest possible percentage will germinate.
Sort your seeds by sowing date.
Store them in a cool, dry place; the refrigerator is ideal. Place seed packets in a covered glass jar, then store the jar in the refrigerator door.
Don’t assume that seeds are no longer viable after one year. This is the case for some (such as sweet peas), but many others (including lettuce) can last up to three years.
To test for viability, place 10 seeds on a moist paper towel, and set the towel inside a plastic bag. Put the bag in a warm spot, and check it every three or four days. If fewer than half the seeds germinate, throw out the packet and order more.
Seeds to direct sow
The following seeds can be planted directly into the ground, even before the danger of frost has passed: Asian greens, beets, carrots, lettuce, peas, radishes, spinach, turnips.
The following should be planted outside after all danger of frost has passed: beans, corn, cucumbers, pumpkins, squashes, Swiss chard.
Seeds to sow indoors
In warm climates, even tomatoes can be sown directly into the garden. But in cooler zones, it’s good to get a jump on the season by starting these vegetables a little early.
Eggplants and tomatoes: six to eight weeks before last frost
Artichokes: eight weeks before last frost
Peppers: eight to 10 weeks before last frost
Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower: four to six weeks before transplanting into the garden
Leeks and onions: six to eight weeks before transplanting into the garden
Questions should be addressed to Ask Martha, care of Letters Department, Martha Stewart Living, 11 W. 42nd St., New York, NY 10036. E-mail to mslletters@marthastewart.com.
&Copy; 2008 Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia Inc.
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