Service gaffes disappoint at Oceanaire

SEATTLE – Send a restaurant critic to a Seattle seafood restaurant just after it opens, sing “Auld Lang Syne” a couple of times, revisit the restaurant and we’re singing a very different review tune.

In 2002, then-Herald restaurant critic Mike Henderson wrote about Oceanaire Seafood Room in downtown Seattle, “Sleek, urban interior? Yes. Best service in recent memory? Yeah.”

The interior’s still sleek and urban with a 1930s art deco style, right down to the typeface on the menu. But on my recent Wednesday lunch visit, I had some of the worst service I’ve ever experienced in a restaurant.

Oceanaire isn’t my kind of place anyway because it’s trendy. Also, it’s a sister in the Buca de Bepo chain, which has its home in Minnesota. I’m not fond of chain restaurants because they’re predictable. And, I’m suspicious of Minnesota telling us Puget Sound residents about fish. But, I wasn’t the hostess and it was a holiday lunch with 10 friends.

After checking our coats, we were quickly seated at one of the large, round tables in the open dining room where all the tables are closely spaced. Water and menus arrived promptly, and one of the staff unfolded and placed napkins in the women’s laps.

We ordered a mix of specials of the day that ranged from a side of potatoes au gratin by our vegetarian to standing menu items such as the oyster loaf to specials of the day such as marlin. Our lunch entrees cost between $9.95 and $29.90. We added cups of chowder, side salads and chocolate mousse and baked apple ($5.95). I ordered the crab cake appetizer ($14.95) and a side salad ($5.95). Placing our order went smoothly.

Then, the service wheels came off. First, only half the group received plates. While their food turned cold, the rest of us waited for ours to come from the kitchen.

When the second wave of plates arrived 12 minutes later, our vegetarian’s potatoes au gratin ended up in the middle of the table as a side dish for everyone to enjoy. We corrected the server.

Others were served. Then, their plates were snatched away mid-bite because it was the wrong order. I was one of four who was still looking at blank white tablecloth.

Seven minutes later, the third wave of orders arrived from the kitchen. My server sat a plate in front of me and apologized for the delay. I smiled, looked at her and said, “This isn’t a crab cake.” She agreed, removed the fish steak and replaced it with my crab cake.

Under the table I was folding my fingers and gripping the backs of my hands so I wouldn’t slam my palms down on the table and shout, “Enough!”

After lunch and on the way out, my friends repeatedly complimented the hostess on her restaurant choice. Everyone agreed that the food was excellent. I don’t remember how anything tasted. I only remember that the bad service came with a $24 lunch tab, which automatically included a tip.

Later, I would think that I can unfold my own napkin but I can’t get the food from the kitchen. And I can name five restaurants in Snohomish and Island counties with equally tasty crab cakes and definitely better service. No. Make that seven. And that doesn’t include Skagit County. Oceanaire is an acquaintance I can forget.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Anna Poole: features@heraldnet.com.

The Oceanaire Seafood Room

1700 Seventh Ave., Seattle; 206-267-2277; www.theoceanaire.com

Specialty: seafood

Hours: lunch 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Price range: expensive

Liquor: full bar

Smoking: nonsmoking

Reservations: recommended

Disabled accessibility: no apparent barriers

Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa

OY SY Japanese restaurant