Show guests your gratitude with vegetable gratin

For this time of year when our minds are racing ahead to holiday menus, a vegetable gratin is something to keep in mind.

For one thing, a gratin can usually be prepared at an earlier time, then baked just before serving. No fuss, no last-minute mussing of delicate vegetable concoctions.

Besides, anyone who’s experienced a gratin becomes an instant fan, in large part because of the intensely flavored, crunchy top.

The term "gratin" literally means crust in French. Most often, the crust is formed by a top layering of cheese, bread crumbs or a combination of both that has browned during the baking process.

When you bake a casserole of macaroni and cheese, for example, that prized and crusty coating of golden brown is about as gratin as you can get. But its cause is pure chemistry.

In the food science community, the process is referred to as a nonenzymatic browning reaction. Which means, quite simply, that when amines (a tiny portion of protein molecules) and sugars get all hot and bothered in your oven the result is the desirable golden hue atop your broccoli gratin. French scientist L.C. Maillard was the first to describe the browning phenomena in 1912, hence the term, "Maillard browning."

Vegetable gratins can be prepared with raw or partially cooked vegetables. Vegetables that render a large amount of water such as spinach and other leaf vegetables, may be gratineed without adding liquid. However, vegetables with less moisture need additional liquid.

One traditional method is to spread a bottom layer of milk-soaked stale bread in the bottom of your baking dish. Spread the vegetables over this, then top with more of the bread and milk mixture. The lower layer of bread provides a steamy environment for the vegetables to cook without drying out, while the upper bread dries and browns to a delectable topping.

Cream or cream and egg combinations are additional ways to maintain a moist interior.

Here are a few of my favorites, which, as I said, can be prepared at an earlier time, then baked just before serving. And they’ll hold quite nicely once they’re removed from the oven. Meaning that when you’re ready to serve the gratin — even if it has had to cool its heels on the counter while Uncle Harry finishes his "Elk and the Motor Home" story — at least the vegetables won’t be suffering.

This wonderful make-ahead mushroom casserole never ceases to induce a round of raves whenever I serve it. When you’re preparing this dish, you may question the amount of mushrooms in the beginning. But fear not! They cook down so don’t decrease the amount.

Spicy mushroom and feta cheese gratin

1pound fresh mushrooms, sliced

2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2tablespoons butter (if avoiding butter, substitute 2 additional tablespoons olive oil)

1tablespoon Worcestershire sauce (more to taste)

About 1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

2tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Salt and white pepper to taste

8ounces traditional feta cheese, drained and crumbled

8ounces shredded medium or sharp cheddar (I use Tillamook)

1/3cup grated Parmesan cheese

6eggs

2cups half-and-half

Scant 1/2 teaspoon salt

Pinch of white pepper

In a very large skillet, saute the mushrooms in the olive oil over medium-high heat until the mushrooms have released their liquid, then continue cooking until the liquid has reduced and the mushrooms are getting very golden brown, shaking and stirring them so that they all get evenly cooked.

Drizzle on the Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco and continue stirring, scraping, and sauteeing until the Worcestershire sauce has been reduced and the mushrooms are even more golden. Add the balsamic vinegar and continue to saute and stir until the vinegar has reduced and the mushrooms are very brown. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Spread the sauteed mushrooms over the bottom of an 11-by-17-inch baking pan. This will only make a shallow layer. Sprinkle on the feta cheese, shredded cheddar and Parmesan. With your fingers, toss some of the mushrooms with the cheese, so portions of the cheeses are snuggled down within and beneath the mushroom layer.

In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, half-and-half, salt and pepper. Ladle enough of this custard mixture over the mushrooms and cheese so that it evenly covers them, with pieces of mushroom and cheese poking out the top (in other words, don’t completely cover the mushrooms with the custard — you may have some custard left over).

You may prepare the gratin up to this point and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

Bake the mixture in a 400 degree oven until the top is golden and the custard tests firm when pressed with your finger, about 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven.

For a really snazzy presentation, consider the garnishing suggestion at the end of the recipe. Or cook it in your prettiest casserole dish or copper pan.

Spinach and rice gratin with sun-dried tomatoes

1cup double strength chicken broth, undiluted

1/2cup pearl rice

3tablespoons olive oil (preferably drained from sun-dried tomatoes)

1cup chopped yellow onion

1/3cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes (about 15 dried tomatoes)

2(10 ounce) packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed, with the

liquid squeezed out

1cup milk

1/2cup sour cream

2eggs

3/4teaspoon salt, or to taste

2cups shredded Swiss cheese

Tomato/basil garnish (optional)

In small medium saucepan, bring chicken broth and rice to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes; remove from heat (rice will still be slightly firm and a little "soupy"). Scrape the mixture into a large mixing bowl and set aside.

In skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add onion and saute until onion is soft and transparent, about 15 minutes. Scrape the onions and oil into the bowl with the rice, add chopped tomatoes and spinach and mix well.

In small bowl, combine sour cream, eggs, milk and salt. Blend well, then stir into the spinach mixture. Finally, stir in the shredded cheese, then scrape the mixture into a shallow, lightly greased 1 1/2 quart casserole dish, or 11-by-17-inch baking pan. Gratin may be prepared to this point and refrigerated for several hours.

Bake in 400 degree oven until thoroughly cooked and lightly golden on top. Remove and serve.

Makes eight to 10 generous servings.

Garnish suggestion: If desired, the gratin may be cut into serving squares or diamonds. Place on heated platter with a wide spatula, then garnish each square with a piece of fresh or sun-dried tomato and sprig of basil or parsley.

Gratin of broccoli with salami and onion topping

About 1 1/2 pounds fresh broccoli, peeled and chopped to measure 6 cups

1 1/2cups shredded mozzarella cheese

1 1/2cups chopped yellow onion

2tablespoons butter or margarine

2/3cup thinly sliced and chopped salami (3 ounces)

1/4cup dry bread crumbs

1/2cup light cream

1egg

1/4teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

Drop the broccoli into large pot of lightly salted water, and as soon as the water returns to a boil, remove from heat and drain. Plunge broccoli into cold water and then drain well. Arrange the blanched broccoli in bottom of lightly oiled 11-by-17-inch shallow dish. Sprinkle with the shredded mozzarella cheese; set aside.

Over medium heat, saute the onion in the butter or margarine until barely soft and transparent, about 10 minutes. Add salami and continue to saute for about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 2 tablespoons of the breadcrumbs. Sprinkle this mixture over the broccoli. Combine the light cream, egg, salt and black pepper and drizzle over the broccoli (NOTE: This will not completely cover all of the vegetables, but will create occasional "pockets" of custard in the finished gratin.). Sprinkle the onion and salami mixture on top of the broccoli. Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of breadcrumbs with the Parmesan cheese and sprinkle over the top of the casserole. Gratin may be prepared to this point several hours ahead. Bake in 375 degree oven about 20 minutes, or until hot and bubbly. Brown under the broiler for a moment until the top is golden. Makes eight to 10 servings.

This is a very uncomplicated, straightforward gratin, so you should seriously consider the pine nut or almond variation, since it can be accomplished with very little additional effort. To maintain the pretty green color, do not overcook the broccoli during the blanching phase.

Broccoli au gratin

About 2 pounds fresh broccoli

1/2cup melted butter

1/3cup grated Parmesan cheese

1cup shredded Swiss cheese

Trim broccoli by peeling the stalks and cutting the heads into small flowerets. Cut the stalks into 1/2-inch chunks. You will have approximately 1 1/2 to 2 quarts of broccoli.

Drop the broccoli into a large pot of lightly salted boiling water and boil just until barely tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Do not cover the pot or the volatile acids will turn the broccoli an unpleasant color. As soon as the broccoli is tender, drain well and immediately plunge into cold water to stop the cooking process. Drain again, then turn the vegetable onto several layers of paper towels to absorb any remaining water.

Turn the broccoli into a shallow, lightly greased 2-quart shallow oven-proof casserole or au gratin dish, or 11-by-17-inch baking pan. Drizzle on the butter then sprinkle on the Parmesan cheese. Top with the Swiss cheese. Gratin may be prepared up to 8 hours ahead to this point, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before proceeding with recipe.

To serve, place casserole 4 to 6 inches from element and broil until broccoli is heated through and cheese is melted and slightly golden. Makes about eight to 10 servings.

Variation: Saute pine nuts or sliced almonds in the butter before drizzling onto broccoli.

Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can e-mail her at janrd@proaxis.com.