On Super Bowl Sunday, while the rest of the universe was consuming 7-layer dip and chili dogs, our main appetizer was a feast of freshly steamed soft-shell clams that had been dwelling in the Yaquina estuary near Newport a mere 24 hours earlier. The canny clammer, our friend Paul, had dug them himself, tumbled them into a bucket filled with fresh sea water, then tended to them throughout the day, changing the water frequently as the clams purged thermselves of their sandy grit.

During the pre-game show, Paul and I readied the clams for steaming. We strained off the sea water and gave them a good rinse. Then Paul sorted them to make sure we were only going to steam the live ones. In truth, there were no casualties, but the way to tell is to give each open clam a nudge and if it doesn’t close — or at least nudge back! — chuck it.

While he arranged them in a large roasting pan I sliced some lemons and garlic, which we added to the clams, along with enough Pinot Gris to produce a healthy head of steam in the pan without drowning the clams. Covered in foil, the pan was placed inside our gas grill which had been preheated to about 400 degrees F. You could also just stick them in the oven, explained Paul, but ours was already taken.

Once the wine came to a boil, we closed the lid and let the steamy goodness of that flavorful liquid work its magic. After only about 15 minutes, we checked the progress and saw that the clams had opened, a sign that they are done.

While Paul gently transferred the clams to a bowl, I poured the juices from the pan into a pot and simmered it until it had reduced by about half, which concentrated the flavors, making it a most succulent dipping sauce. For a second dipping option, Paul had melted some butter and skimmed off the foam to produce a golden buttery sauce.

From there it was only a matter of standing back and letting the group move in to enjoy one of the Pacific Northwest’s greatest treasures.

I seem to gravitate toward this style of eating throughout the winter-into-spring months. Indeed, this is a great time of year to invite a few folks over and gather around a bowl of freshly-cooked steamer clams. It’s good eating at its friendliest; a straightforward culinary event requiring nothing more than hearty appetites, and a generous supply of great-quality, crusty bread to sop up the flavorful juices in the bowl.

If you aren’t lucky enough to have a personal clammer in your group, the clams to look for in the seafood case at your favorite market are the so-called “steamer” clams. That’s actually how you’ll find them labeled in most fish markets. Here in the Pacific Northwest, the clams you’re most likely to encounter within this catagory are the native littleneck clam, the butter clam, and the Manila clam. But don’t get too wrapped around the idea of having to know what kind of clams you’re purchasing, because chances are your shell-fish provider won’t be able to tell you. They should know where they come from, though, which in many cases will be Washington, since there’s a thriving commercial clamming industry here.

Now, for Steamer Clams 101, here’s all you need to know to get started: You’re dealing with a live organism. And you want them to be that way right up until you cook them. So, before cooking, discard any clams that aren’t closed (or don’t close when you nudge or tap them on their shell). After cooking, discard any clams that didn’t open during cooking.

It’s that simple. Really.

In between those two activities, all you’re doing is exposing some fresh and succulent bi-valves to a bit of flavored liquid and heating them until they open up. Throw that pot of cooked-up steamers into the center of a people-lined dinner table and discover just how easy it is to please a group of friends.

What you cook your clams in is up to you. To get launched, I highly recommend trying the classic approach I described above: wine, garlic, and a little bit of seasoning. But variations abound, so don’t be shy to create your own specialty. From extra-garlicy to smokey-hot chipotle chiles, the outcome can be anything from subtle to fiery.

The details

Some things to keep in mind about steamer clams:

It’s really simple and really fun to cook steamer clams.

Store fresh clams at refrigerator temperature in a bucket or bowl with a damp towel covering them. They’ll last for several days this way.

Only use clams that are alive and fresh. Discard any clams with broken shells. If you can open the shell with your fingers, discard the clam before cooking.

When cooking is complete discard any clams that have not opened.

Scrub off the clams if they’re dirty. Next, you might consider placing them in a large pot of water (3 to 4 quarts), along with about 1/3 cup of salt. Keep them in this water for no longer than 15 minutes, just to give the clams a chance to eliminate a little more sand.

Drain off the water, then add enough fresh water to reach about ½ inch up the side of the pot. Bring the water to a boil with about 2 tablespoons of butter, a healthy slosh of olive oil, several cloves of minced parsley, half an onion (minced), some minced parsley and tarragon, the juice of 1 lemon, about 2 teaspoons of salt, and about 1 cup of a full-bodied, Chardonnay or other dry white wine of your choosing. Or use one of the following recipes or make up your own.

Cover the pot, bring the liquid to a boil and steam just until the clams open their shells, which only takes 5 to 7 minutes.

Throw away any clams that don’t open.

Spoon the clams into a serving dish with the liquid and serve with large quantities of great-quality bread and a delicious salad. Alternatively, spoon the clam mixture over cooked pasta, such as linguini. In the summer, bring on the freshly boiled or grilled corn on the cob.

At the table, you will want to set out a couple of bowls for folks to toss the empty shells into, and have plenty of forks and napkins.

John Huyck’s chipotle clams

50 Manilla clams (or other fresh “steamer” clams)

2 tablespoons butter

½ cup diced yellow onion

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

½ cup dry white wine

2 ounces (¼ cup) chipotle puree (see note below)

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Lemon wedges

Good bread

Saute clams in butter, onions, and garlic until they start to open, then deglaze the pan with wine, stirring and scraping to dissolve the flavorful cooked-on bits of food at the bottom of the pan. Add the cilantro and chipotle. Simmer until the clams completely open (discarding any that don’t), then serve immediately with lemon wedges. Use bread to sop up all the goodness after the clams are gone.

Note: You can find canned Chipotle con Escabeche at most grocery stores (check in the Mexican food section). Puree what you need and store the rest in a glass container in the refrigerator.

Robert’s steamed clams with leeks, ginger and soy sauce

3 cups sliced leeks (all of white and pale green and a portion of the dark green)

2 tablespoon olive oil

About ½ teaspoon salt

About ¼ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

2 tablespoon butter

36 to 40 clams, depending on size (about 1 pound)

½ cup water

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

About 1 1/3 cups diced Roma tomatoes

2 teaspoons soy sauce

In medium-large pot, saute the leeks in the olive oil until bright green and softened. Add salt, pepper, and butter and stir until butter is melted. Scrape the mixture from the pan into a dish and reserve.

To the pot add the clams, water and ginger. Cover and cook just until the clams open, about 5 to 7 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove the clams to a serving dish. To the pot, add the tomatoes and soy sauce, stir and cook just until the tomatoes are heated through, then pour the mixture over the clams and serve.

Steamer clams in lots of butter and garlic

3 tablespoons butter, unsalted (or, preferably, clarified)

½ tablespoon minced garlic

1½ pounds Manila clams (about 37 to 45 clams, or other fresh “steamer” clams)

½ tablespoon fresh, minced parsley

¾ cup dry white wine

1 lemon wedge per person

In saute pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add garlic and clams, stir to coat clams with butter. Continue cooking until the garlic is softened. Add parsley and wine, then cover with a lid and cook until all the clams have opened, which usually takes about 5 to 7 minutes.

Remove the clams, discarding any that haven’t opened, and place the rest of them in a serving bowl, along with the juices from the pan. Garnish with wedges of lemon.

Jan Roberts-Dominguez: janrd@proaxis.com, www.janrd.com.