Tenderloin’s the best pork cut: lean, with little waste

  • By Jim Romanoff / Associated Press
  • Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:00pm
  • Life

Though its name is practically synonymous with bad health, pork doesn’t have to be banished from a good-for-you diet.

Thanks to advances in breeding and feeding techniques, pork actually is leaner than it was 30 years ago. In fact, cuts such as tenderloin are among the leanest meats you can buy, with just 139 calories and 4 grams of fat per 3-ounce serving.

Pork tenderloin also is convenient because it’s small – usually no more than 1 1/2 pounds – and cooks quickly.

Though tenderloin can be pricey (as much as $7 a pound), compared with other cuts of pork there’s little waste. And a 1-pound pork tenderloin can easily feed 4 people.

Bruce Aidells, founder of a sausage company and author of “Bruce Aidells’s Complete Book of Pork,” likes pork tenderloin for its “delicate flavor and buttery tenderness.” He says the mild character of the meat lends itself to pairing with many flavors, such as fruit, chilies, and Indian and Thai seasonings.

A tenderloin can make a great family meal and is easily turned into a special dinner by butterflying and stuffing it, Aidells says. Among his favorite stuffings: slices of prosciutto and grated Parmesan cheese.

He also enjoys tying together two tenderloins together so that the thin end of one is aligned with the thick end of the other.

“It gives you a nice cylindrical roast that’s ideal for serving four to six people,” he says.

The tenderloin also can be sliced crosswise into medallions, which then can be pounded thin and pan-seared. The smaller tail end can also be pounded flat and cooked in a similar fashion. Make a quick pan sauce for an elegant-but-easy dinner.

Preparing pork tenderloin is easy. There usually is little or no fat to trim away. Some cooks remove the thin membrane that runs along the surface of the meat (called silver skin), claiming it toughens the meat. Aidells says he never bothers.

Roasting, grilling and sauteing all are good methods for cooking tenderloin. Whatever way you use, be careful not to overcook the meat as the small amount of fat means it dries out easily.

This recipe for chipotle grilled pork tenderloin from the June issue of Cooking Light magazine makes a great Father’s Day dinner. The smoky, spicy marinated pork is pleasantly balanced by a cool strawberry-avocado salsa.

The recipe is easily doubled for a crowd.

Make sure to grill the pork over indirect heat to avoid drying it out. If pressed for time, grill the tenderloin the day before, refrigerate, and then slice and serve it at room temperature.

Prepare the salsa just before serving. That way the flavors will be at their freshest and the ingredients won’t discolor.

For the pork:

2tablespoons minced chipotle chilies, canned in adobo sauce

2tablespoons fresh lime juice

3/4cup sliced onion

2garlic cloves, crushed

11/2 pounds pork tenderloin, trimmed if necessary

1/2teaspoon salt

Cooking spray

For the salsa:

1quart fresh strawberries, rinsed, hulled and quartered

2/3cup peeled and chopped avocado (about 1/2 large)

2tablespoons thinly sliced scallions

2tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2tablespoons fresh lime juice

1/4teaspoon salt

To prepare the pork, in a large zip-close plastic bag combine chipotle chilies, lime juice, onion and garlic. Add pork, then seal and marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours, turning the bag occasionally.

When ready to cook, preheat a gas grill to high, or prepare a charcoal fire. Lightly coat the grill rack with cooking spray.

Remove the pork from bag and discard marinade. Sprinkle the pork evenly with salt. Place pork on the rack and grill over indirect heat, turning occasionally, for 20 minutes, or until a thermometer inserted in the center of the pork registers 155 degrees. The inside should be slightly pink. Remove the meat from the heat and let stand 10 minutes. Slice crosswise.

To prepare the salsa, in a medium bowl, combine the strawberries, avocado, scallions, cilantro, lime juice and salt. Toss gently. Serve immediately with the sliced pork.

Makes 6 servings. Per serving: 180 calories; 6 grams fat (2 grams saturated); 63 milligrams cholesterol; 7 grams carbohydrate; 23 grams protein; 2 grams fiber; 348 milligrams sodium.

Adapted from the June issue of Cooking Light magazine

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