Tin Fish reels ‘em in at Mukilteo

  • By Anna Poole / Herald Restaurant Critic
  • Thursday, June 23, 2005 9:00pm
  • LifeGo-See-Do

MUKILTEO – Herald readers Jack and Lind Grouell sent an e-mail suggesting we visit “a great new restaurant” – Tin Fish in Mukilteo. “They have great fresh fish and seafood with grilled and fried options.”

204 Lincoln Ave., Mukilteo; 425-353-9549; www.thetinfish.comSpecialty: Fish

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily

Price range: moderate

Liquor: beer and wine

Reservations: recommended for parties of six or more

Disabled accessibility: easy access

Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa

The Grouells had my attention, but they really hooked me when they said, “We have not been disappointed once in the many visits we’ve made so far. The people are friendly and aim to please. … The food’s been great every time we’ve been in.”

Tin Fish opened in April in the former site of the Marco Polo restaurant, which closed in December 2004. Tin Fish is a San Diego-based chain with seven restaurants in addition to the Mukilteo location. The Mukilteo patio offers a stunning view of Elliott Point, the Mukilteo lighthouse and the constant activity of the state ferry dock.

If you’re not into the view because you’re hungry and stuck in the ferry line, Tin Fish will run your order out to your car when you pull up in front of the restaurant. Just call with your order, credit card number and description of your car. What to order?

Tin Fish’s Web site boasts “The Best Crab Cake on the Planet.” I’m not originally from Missouri but Tin Fish was going to have to prove that claim, so I ordered the crab cake platter with two four-ounce cakes, fries and coleslaw ($11.95). I took this order home for my dinner companion who was still at work.

For myself, I chose the grilled swordfish plate ($12.95), which also comes with fries and coleslaw. I added a Widmer Brothers Hefeweizen ($2.50) because its traditional slice of lemon adds to any seafood experience. Then, I selected a table on the sun-filled patio.

Tin Fish is more casual than its established, upscale neighbors such as Ivar’s and Arnie’s. As I waited briefly for my order to arrive, a youngster floated her plastic boat in the patio fountain.

When my server delivered my order, he asked if I was from Southern California. Was my three-year exile that obvious, I asked myself? He indicated that my order of swordfish was a clue because the Pacific Northwest favorite is halibut. Halibut, salmon, mahi-mahi and swordfish appear on the menu in tacos ($2.95 to $5.50 each), sandwiches, ($10.95 to $12.95) and as fish and chips ($12.95 to $14.95). There’s also fish cakes, fried calamari or calamari tacos and oysters on the half shell. If you’re tired of fish, Tin Fish serves chicken tacos, tenders and a chicken sandwich or hamburgers and pizza.

With all these combinations, how could you get bored with a fish selection? My swordfish steaks were a tad overcooked but well-seasoned and tasty. The skin-on fries were sprinkled with paprika, which added an extra spark, and the coleslaw was crunchy and not overdressed in its vinegar-based dressing.

Oh yes, the crab cakes? I mooched a taste later. There’s plenty of crab in the cakes, as promised. The celery was still crunchy and the seasoning adds just a zip, especially from the pepper. Best on the planet? Let me know what you think.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.

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