Giving wine as a gift this holiday season? Consider skipping the obvious French, Italian and California labels and look south – as in south of the equator – for something a little different, a little ahead of the pack and a lot lighter on the wallet.
Australia has already made its name as a quality, affordable alternative with its distinctive shiraz offerings. But now it’s joined by New Zealand, South Africa and South America vying for the same market on wine shop shelves and Internet sites.
“There is a smorgasbord of opportunity,” says John Gorman, head of the 13-year-old Southern Hemisphere Wine Center in suburban Los Angeles, which specializes in south-of-the-equator producers. “You’re going to get more wine for less money than the French and others.”
Walking into a wine shop, with arrays of labels and grape types, can be intimidating even if you have a specific region in mind. Asking for guidance from a clerk can help, but it’s best to have at least a rough idea of what you’re looking for. A light, fruity red? A crisp, dry white? Something with a good pedigree?
Thanks to competition from southern wines, as well as wine gluts in Europe and Australia, you can pick from plenty of pizza-friendly wines that run less than the cost of the pie itself.
Wines and regions that impress
“There’s a lot of good malbec out there” from Argentina, says Ray Isle, a senior editor for Food &Wine magazine. “It’s one of my favorite bargain wines.”
Malbec, with a number of good choices below $10, is particularly good as an accompaniment for steak or ribs because it stands up well to strong meats. Some reds from Chile have similar attributes.
Looking at southern wines also provides an opportunity to impress your well-traveled in-laws, who always seem to be raving about some sassy little Bordeaux that they found off the beaten path in the south of France.
There are hot new wine regions, hot old regions that are experimenting with little-known types of grapes, and hot new styles that are strictly outside the box.
Australia’s iconic shiraz already has such large followings that few people will blink if you pop the cork on one. But you’re likely to get a really big pop at the weekend barbecue with a bottle of sparkling shiraz from Down Under.
“A lot of people are asking about it,” Gorman says. “There you have this deep, red wine with bubbles in a Champagne flute. People think of sparkling wine mostly as a before-dinner drink. But you can put sparkling red out there, and it’s good with turkey, ham, pizza, even with desserts like cheesecake.”
Innovation
A number of Australian vineyards also are experimenting with blends of shiraz and viognier, normally a white grape. The result is often a smooth, easy-drinking wine that goes surprisingly well with spicy Asian foods and curries.
Already known for its great sauvignon blancs, New Zealand is quickly developing a reputation for its fruity yet complex pinot noirs. And South Africa has some pretty good shiraz makers.
“Every day we see new markets emerging,” says Tom Traverso, marketing manager for wine.com, singling out India and China as the really new kids on the block.
Innovation also is hitting traditional and new producers in Europe. Spain is having a resurgence after undergoing massive renovations to its vineyards as part of an effort to update cultivation methods. Try Hungary for sweet Tokays and Slovenia for tasty whites.
“Southern Italy is very hot right now,” Traverso says. “They have 2,000 varieties, some dating back to Greco-Roman periods. They’re doing some fantastic things with them, like vermentino, falanghina, two white wines.”
Experimentation can take other forms, too.
“Maybe your uncle loves French Bordeaux, so you’re looking for something that would appeal to him,” Gorman says. “We might suggest something from the upper Clare Valley in Australia, or South Africa’s Stellenbosch area.”
Buy big, spend small
Buying wine for the boss depends on philosophy and price range.
“Generally speaking, the perception is that the boss needs to be impressed, either with quantity or quality; the smaller the quantity, the higher the quality,” Gorman says.
“But you should try not to get too over the top. To give someone a bottle of Grange is a ridiculous gesture unless the person is really into high-end wine,” says Gorman, referring to Australia’s best-known wine, which sells for $300 or more a bottle.
“I’d rather do six bottles from smaller boutique vineyards that would provide high quality but over a wide spectrum.”
Another reason to consider quantity: A single expensive bottle might get put away for a few years to age, so you, your boss or both might be working elsewhere by the time it’s opened. Multiple bottles raises your chances of sharing some.
There even are quality wines with clever names to show off your sense of humor – Australia’s d’Arenberg vineyard produces a top-end shiraz called The Dead Arm, and Fox Creek does a sparkling shiraz called Vixen.
The pack mentality: good and bad
Buying wine has become a little lemming-like, with people putting their trust in experts and turning up their noses at anything that doesn’t rate well in the Wine Spectator, the Wine Advocate or Robert Parker’s guides.
“Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on your perspective, the trade publication ratings have a big impact,” Traverso says. “Folks like Robert Parker have so much influence.”
As a result, wine.com has two special sections: wines that have scored above 90 points (out of 100) in one of the major trade magazines and cost under $20, and wines that have been rated at least 94 and cost under $94.
Certainly, you’d be unlikely to go wrong with any of those wines, especially when it comes time to give yourself or someone else a gift for a special occasion. But think about trying some of what the south has to offer. At the going rates, it can’t hurt to sample a few things to find something you like.
And there’s one final bargain suggestion. Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and other countries are producing some super-sweet dessert wines that you could just about use to top pancakes. Since they’re only half-bottles, spending $20 or $30 doesn’t sound so bad.
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