Turn to halibut when salmon seems a little too spendy

S eafood lovers who have been following fish news know that it’s going to be a long spring.

Salmon may be in short supply, and its prices are likely to stay high through the summer.

But as Mama used to say, there’s never a door that closes without a window opening somewhere else. This season’s silver lining is Pacific halibut.

Halibut is a fish with charms all its own. While salmon is rich and assertive, halibut is mild-mannered. Other flavors have to stand up to salmon, but they fall in love with halibut.

Halibut is available pretty much year-round, but is at its best in spring and summer. The fish are highly migratory, and beginning in mid-March they move from the deep ocean to shallow coastal waters to feed.

Halibut is a flat fish, like flounder or sole, and shares their fine-textured flesh. Its main distinguishing feature is size. Halibut are huge. This is a fish so big its Latin genus Hippoglossus could well be “hippopotamus.” Adult halibut can grow 9 feet long and weigh 700 pounds.

Halibut’s close-grained flesh turns snowy white when cooked. Its flavor, not as aggressive as salmon and mackerel, is sweet with a warm, herbal bottom note almost like bay.

Because halibut is so lean, it needs to be cooked gently. Adding a little fat to the dish is never a bad idea.

In general, using moist-heat cooking methods, such as steaming or poaching, delays the moisture loss. But dry-heat methods, such as grilling or broiling, will speed it up. So if you’re going to grill halibut, pay very close attention.

In fact, it’s a good idea to remove the fish from the heat before it’s completely done, as the retained heat will finish the cooking.

Make a chowder by simmering tiny potatoes in a milk broth scented with bacon and bay. When the potatoes are soft, slip in chunks of halibut and poach until done – no more than five minutes.

Remove from the heat and stir in sugar snap peas and chopped fresh herbs. The sugar snaps will brighten, but not cook; they’ll still have their sweet crunch.

Even easier is baking halibut in an aluminum foil packet. Place the fish on a bed of pea shoots and top with a dollop of butter flavored with tarragon, chervil and chives. The fish gently steams, flavored by the pea sprouts below and the herbal butter above.

Serve the packets closed and let your guests open them. As the packets are unwrapped, hot, herb-scented steam will pour out.

One of the best things about this dish is that it can be made in advance. Refrigerate the assembled packages, and when you’re ready, pop them in the oven on a jellyroll pan. They’ll take less than 15 minutes from fridge to plate.

Just as simple is to cold poach halibut. Heat a broth to the boil and pour it over the fish. Gradually, the hot stock will cook the fish, but won’t overcook it. Serve at room temperature – chilling gives halibut a waxy texture.

The broth doesn’t have to be anything complicated. Simmer the trimmings from a couple of fennel bulbs with a smashed garlic clove or two. The fish will pick up a delicate perfume from the liquid.

So no need for weeping and gnashing of teeth over the high price of salmon this season. Remember the other thing Mama told you: There are other fish in the sea.

1/4pound bacon (about 3 thick slices)

1shallot, minced

1pound small potatoes, cut in uniform pieces

2cups milk

2cups half-and-half

1bay leaf

1 1/2 pounds halibut, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

1/4teaspoon salt

1/4pound sugar snap peas, strings removed if necessary

1tablespoon minced chives

2teaspoons chervil leaves

Cut bacon in thin slices crosswise and combine with minced shallot in a medium pot. Place over medium heat and cook until the shallot softens and bacon begins to cook (don’t render completely), about 5 minutes.

Add potatoes and stir to combine flavors. Add milk, half-and-half and bay leaf and bring to a simmer. Cook until potatoes are tender, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove bay leaf. Add the halibut and salt and cook until the halibut is firm, about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the pan from heat and stir in sugar snap peas, chives and chervil. Taste and add salt if necessary. Serve immediately in heated bowls.

Makes six servings. Per serving: 377 calories; 33 grams protein; 22 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 17 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 81 milligrams cholesterol; 375 milligrams sodium.

1/4pound (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1shallot, minced

1 1/2tablespoons minced chervil

2teaspoons minced chives

4teaspoons minced tarragon

2tablespoons lemon juice

Salt

6cups pea sprouts

6(1/2-pound) halibut steaks or fillets

Beat together the butter, shallot, chervil, chives and tarragon until the mixture is relatively smooth and pale green. Beat in the lemon juice. Taste and season with 1/4 teaspoon salt. The butter should taste aggressively lemony.

Spoon the butter onto a sheet of plastic wrap in the shape of a log and roll it into a cylinder. Twist the ends of the plastic wrap in opposite directions to firm the cylinder and roll it gently on the counter to eliminate any air pockets in the center. Refrigerate until ready to use. (Recipe can be prepared to this point a couple of days in advance).

To prepare the packets, place a sheet of aluminum foil on the work counter. Arrange 1 cup of pea sprouts in a bed in the center. Lightly salt a halibut steak or fillet on both sides and place it on the pea sprouts. Slice off a generous tablespoon of the herb butter and place it on top of the halibut. Seal the packet tightly, folding the edges over several times to ensure a tight seal.

Recipe can be prepared to this point 8 hours in advance and refrigerated until ready to bake.

When ready to bake, heat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the sealed packets on a jellyroll pan and bake 12 to 15 minutes (the longer period if the packets have just come from the refrigerator, or if you like your fish more thoroughly cooked).

Transfer the baked packets to a plate and serve immediately, warning your guests that they are full of very hot, very fragrant steam.

Makes six servings. Per serving: 542 calories; 58 grams protein; 35 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams fiber; 21 grams fat; 11 grams saturated fat; 113 mg. cholesterol; 246 mg. sodium.

1pound fennel bulbs, with fronds

3cloves garlic, crushed

Salt

1/4cup chopped, pitted green olives

2tablespoons chopped walnuts

1clove garlic, minced

3tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4teaspoons lemon juice

1/4teaspoon powdered oregano

1 1/2pounds halibut fillet, cut into four equal pieces

Trim the fronds from the fennel bulbs, finely chop and reserve 2 tablespoons for garnish. Set aside the remaining fronds. Cut away the stalks and the bases from the fennel and quarter the bulbs lengthwise. Cut out the solid core and slice very thin crosswise. This is best done by hand; a mandoline or slicer will cut the fennel too thin and there won’t be any crunch.

Chop the stalks, fronds and other fennel trimmings into 1- to 2-inch pieces and put them in a medium saucepan along with 6 cups of water, three cloves of crushed garlic and 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil and simmer 20 minutes.

Combine the fennel, olives and walnuts and garlic in a bowl. Add the olive oil, lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon salt and oregano and toss to combine well. Taste and adjust seasoning. You may need a little more lemon juice or salt.

Place the halibut in a deep bowl. Pour the hot liquid through a strainer over the halibut and set aside. Carefully turn each piece of fish over after 10 minutes. Let stand 20 more minutes. The outside will be flaky and the center will be set but extremely moist and almost cool. If you prefer a flakier center, leave the fish in the liquid a little longer.

Place each fillet on a plate. Sprinkle with the reserved chopped fennel fronds. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.