A lanky, shorthaired, sandy-colored dog with a big snout came over and leaned against my right leg as I was taking a nice long sip of the ruby-red cabernet in my wine glass. “He’s a leaner. Rufus loves people,” said Debbie Hansen, director of winemaking at Cougar Crest Winery.
I wondered if he liked the wine as much as my leg. He looked up at me like I was his best friend just back from the war. I gave Rufus a hearty pat on the back and returned to savoring my wine.
The Cougar Crest Reserve 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon was outstanding. It is well balanced and intense, with ripe flavors of blackberry, lavender and vanilla. It was like a mocha vino in my mouth. I could understand why it got 90 points in Wine Spectator. What a superb start on a sunny warm Friday in Walla Walla.
I had two days to explore the wineries of Walla Walla Valley. Since there are more than 100 wineries and more than 1,400 acres of vineyards, it was not going to be easy to pick a dozen or so to visit. Since the area is known for its red wines, I decided to focus on syrah, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. With the Blue Mountains as my backdrop, I set out to find the best red wine east of the Cascades.
For 150 years, this part of southeast Washington has been a farmers’ mecca. Walla Walla is a place of inspiring natural beauty, made even more pastoral with vine-covered hillsides. The people are warm and friendly. It’s a laid-back Main Street America with world-class wineries. In native American language, Walla Walla means “place of many waters.” Today it is a “land of many wines.”
The Walla Walla Valley is a distinct wine-growing region, recognized by our federal government as an American Viticulture Area (AVA). Each AVA has its own unique climate, soil and physical features that add complexity to the grapes grown there.
Red wines grow well in the rugged soil of this valley; the more they struggle to survive, the more flavorful the grape. Sandy loam and volcanic soil are poor in nutrients but provide good drainage for grapes. How can one place be famous for giant sweet onions and world-class wine at the same time?
Our state’s merlot is world-class, Olympic-quality wine. Washington syrah is rustic yet elegant. It’s a dusty cowboy in a tuxedo on his way to a barbecue. Adding great cabernet sauvignon make these red wines the Three Washington Amigos.
I left Rufus behind only to meet three more winery dogs at Dunham Cellars just down the street. There are 15 wineries housed in refurbished World War II airplane hangers by the Walla Walla Airport. I was expecting the ghost of John Wayne to come out from the back of one of these wineries in full flying regalia and ask, “Well, how da ya like the wine, pilgrim?” It didn’t happen.
The dogs of Dunham Cellars, Maysy, Konnie and the three-legged dog named Port, should be proud of their master and winemaker, Eric Dunham. His Lewis Vineyard syrah was great, full of big fruit and tasted like black cherry cola. Wine Spectator listed it in the Top 100 Wines in the world in 2001. I got some licks from his lovable canines and took some of their wines.
I headed south of town to Peppers Bridge Winery to sample their outstanding 2003 Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Across the road to the east, nestled in a beautiful vineyard, is Northstar Winery. Northstar is a state-of-the-art winery, owned by the same folks that own Chateau Ste. Michelle winery in Woodinville. I tasted some wines there that can only be described as rich and complex. Their “flagship” 2003 Columbia Valley Merlot was wonderful (91 points in Wine Spectator). Seventeen different vineyards are used to make their merlot. Meridith, the most enthusiastic and delightful tasting room hostess in the valley, gave us a tour of the winery. Va bene!
Close by, around a bend in the road, is Tertulia Winery, established in 2005, and already producing award-winning syrah from its Les Collines vineyard. Ryan Raber, winemaker from Duvall, is mastering the art of fine winemaking. Tertulia means “a gathering of friends.” Their colorful new tasting room is a great place to gather. Raber was bursting with enthusiasm for his wines. The Wine Advocate gave the syrah I was sipping 92 points.
My search for Walla Walla red wines moved on to the charming L’Ecole No. 41 Winery west of town. The tasting room is housed in a great old schoolhouse, lovingly preserved down to the kid-sized drinking fountains and chalkboards. Here I found an elegant merlot, delicious from the first whiff to the last drop in my glass. Their Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot has great fruitiness and rich color. Tasting wine in an old classroom made me look around for my third-grade teacher, Mrs. Carlson, who would be admonishing me for not cleaning my glass after each tasting.
My final stop before heading into town to eat was the venerable Woodward Canyon Winery, one of America’s best. The tasting room is located in a modest little farmhouse on U.S. 12. The wines are far from modest. Their 2004 Columbia Valley Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon is a pedigree of flavors, all jumping around in my mouth. The wines of the second oldest winery in the valley got my “Great Washington Reds” award.
European red wine captured critical acclaim in the last century with their earthy, wild flavors. Red wine from the Walla Walla Valley is softer, heartier and smoother. It’s a perfect metaphor for the people and the enchanting environment in this delightful region of our state.
Michael “Gino” Gianunzio is a local lawyer, artist and winemaker. He lives on Camano Island and can be reached at theislanditalian@yahoo.com.
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