Word’s out on new place in Monroe

  • By Jessi Loerch Herald Writer
  • Friday, August 12, 2011 12:01am
  • LifeMonroe

After the third person mentioned Tuscano’s Italian Kitchen in just a few weeks, I knew I had to try the new Italian place in Monroe.

Tuscano’s, which used to serve Southwestern-style food as Canyons Restaurant, has remade itself as an Italian restaurant. It closed briefly before reopening in May.

I took my friends’ advice and gave Tuscano’s a try. The place was busy, but not hectic, during my midweek visit. My husband, daughter and I were seated in the dining room after a wait of about 10 minutes. While we waited, a friend took the offer of a table in the bar, which was open immediately.

A serving of light, just-so-slightly-chewy bread arrived soon after we sat down. The side of dipping oil was fabulously seasoned. The oil and spices were packed with flavor, but not so much that they overwhelmed the bread. My husband and I quickly ate our way through a serving of bread, and happily accepted a second when it was offered.

We ordered a caprese ($7.99) for an appetizer. The tomatoes were fresh and summery. The mozzarella was soft and very lightly seasoned, so the flavors of the tomato and basil really shined. However, four slices of tomato seemed stingy for eight bucks.

We also ordered a casa insalata ($3.99) to share, but our server forgot it. She finally brought the salad after our entrees arrived and we asked about it. It was a decent salad, but was mostly ignored in favor of our food. I’m normally not a fan of iceberg lettuce, but the salad was fresh and crisp, with olives, grape tomatoes, croutons and a creamy pesto dressing. It was a generous serving, and easily served two people as a side.

For my entree, I couldn’t decide what I wanted, so I went for some variety. I ordered Tuscano’s Italian Trio ($15.99). It comes with lasagna, sausage canneloni and jumbo cheese ravioli.

For the ravioli, you have the option of marinara, alfredo, pesto or Bolognese sauce. I went with the pesto, and was glad I did. It was a creamy pesto, and the pasta was fat and satisfyingly cheesy. The lasagna tasted fresh and bright with a good mix of meat, cheese and sauce. The canneloni was my least favorite of the three. The meat was bland to my taste, although my husband didn’t seem to mind when he finished it off my plate.

He ordered the chicken saltimbocca ($13.99), which came with prosciutto, artichoke hearts and a lemon caper butter sauce with a side of linguini. The chicken was the star of the meal, and certainly the most interesting of the flavors. It was bright and surprising with a pleasant tartness in just the right amount.

As we were finishing up our meal, my daughter decided she was done with staying in her high chair. While we distracted her for a few minutes with some toys, the server quickly boxed up our dessert to go. Except for the forgotten salad, the service was friendly and prompt throughout our entire meal.

When we got home, we thoroughly enjoyed the chocolate hot lava cake ($5.99) with ice cream on the side. The cake was deliciously rich, but not so strong as to be overwhelming. It made a perfect finish to the meal, even eaten a smidge late at home. I also eyed the strawberry rhubarb cobbler ($4.99), and think I’ll try that next time.

While Tuscano’s bills itself as family-friendly, there is also seating in the bar for adults who would like to enjoy a meal without children nearby. Additionally, on nice days, the patio is available for outdoor seating. Now that the sun seems to have really arrived, I’ll be back. And I won’t be at all surprised when I run into someone else I know. It seems the word is spreading.

Tuscano’s Italian Kitchen

14919 North Kelsey St., Monroe; 360-805-5453; www.tuscanositalian.com

Specialty: Italian

Alcohol: Full bar

Vegetarian options: Several choices

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