Yesteryear delicacy not tricky to make

  • By Judyrae Kruse / Herald Columnist
  • Tuesday, July 25, 2006 9:00pm
  • Life

Today’s whatchamacallit sounds like it might be better suited to a crisp fall or brisk winter morning than a sunny summer sizzler. Or maybe not. Depending.

So let’s give it a go, starting with this great letter from longtime Forum helper-outer Chris Marl of Everett. “I saw the SOS for something that you said sounded like scrapple,” she writes. “Sounded like scrapple to me, too, so I did some hunting around.

“This recipe for Philadelphia scrapple is from my 1975 ‘Better Homes and Gardens Heritage Cook Book.’ I also have a recipe from a cookbook of Amish recipes.

“The conclusion I draw is that the key ingredients are pork, some liquid, some binder, and whatever you want in the way of spices. This was farm food, so it was undoubtedly driven more by what was on hand than a ‘classic’ recipe. The BHG recipe calls for cornmeal. The Amish one calls for a mixture of cornmeal and buckwheat flour. So, I don’t see why oatmeal wouldn’t work just as well.”

Chris adds, “My dad grew up on a farm in southwest Washington. I remember him talking about scrapple with great relish. I recall that I even had it a time or two when I was a small tyke and we visited my grandparents.

“And I imagine I lapped it up like it was the food of the gods – hot pork with sweet syrup – man, what could be a better taste treat!

“I hadn’t thought of it for years, until I saw your article the other day. Thanks for bringing back those great memories.”

And Nancy Grant of Everett tells us, “I was fascinated when I read the request from Sharon Weiden for a recipe she wanted that her grandmother gave her about 50 years ago. You gave me a great clue when you mentioned scrapple. I love to look up unusual recipes in my 1975 edition of ‘Joy of Cooking,’ because it seems to have something about everything.

“So, looking it up, I found a recipe for pork scrapple or goetta. This recipe was similar, but did not use ground pork. It started from scratch, so I went online and typed ‘recipe for goetta.’ I found this one at www.post-gazette.com/food. It sounds similar to the description Sharon is looking for. Hope it helps!”

This excerpt and recipe, taken from an Aug. 31, 2000, Post-Gazette column written by Arlene Burnett, states, “Goetta is of German origin, similar to mush and almost identical to what the Pennsylvania-Dutch call scrapple. Goetta is made with oatmeal and pork; scrapple is made with cornmeal and pork.

“The recipe itself is easy to make, but the oatmeal will stick if you don’t stir more than occasionally. Gail Deibler Finke tells us that goetta is very popular in Cincinnati, and everyone she knows uses this recipe.”

Forum cooks will notice this Cincinnati version calls for pinhead oatmeal. As far as I can tell, this ingredient is not available here, so substitute Silver Palate Thick and Rough Oatmeal or McCann’s Irish Oatmeal, or other steel-cut oats.

Both the McCann’s and Silver Palate brands can be found locally in the cooked-cereal section at some of the better-stocked supermarkets.

That said, I say if you’ve never made nor eaten this old-time specialty, you’ll undoubtedly want to try:

Philadelphia scrapple

1 1/2pounds boneless pork shoulder, cubed

Salted water

1 1/2cups cornmeal

1/2teaspoon salt

1/2teaspoon dried sage, crumbled

1/4teaspoon pepper

All-purpose flour

Fat for frying

Maple syrup

Simmer cubed pork in salted water to cover until meat is tender, about 1 hour. Drain; reserve broth. Measure broth and add enough water to make 4 cups. Return liquid to saucepan. Shred meat. Stir into broth with cornmeal, salt, sage and pepper. Bring to boiling, stirring constantly. Cook and stir until thick enough to make a cross with a spoon, about 5 minutes. Pour into a greased 3-by-5-by-9-inch loaf pan. Cover; chill until firm. Unmold. Cut into 1/2-inch thick slices. Dust with flour. Brown in a small amount of hot fat on both sides, about 10 minutes. Serve with warm maple syrup. Makes one 5-by-9-inch pan.

Goetta

8cups water

2teaspoons salt

Pinch pepper

21/2cups pinhead oatmeal

1pound ground pork

1pound ground beef

1large onion, sliced (see note)

1-4bay leaves (see note)

In large pot with lid, boil water; add salt, pepper and oatmeal. Cover and let cook 2 hours, stirring often. Add meat, onion and bay leaves; mix well and cook for another hour, stirring often. Remove bay leaves. Pour into bread pans (size doesn’t matter). Refrigerate overnight. To serve, slice the goetta and fry it until crispy or just until heated through. May be served with pancakes and eggs, on sandwiches or in place of meat at dinner.

Note: If desired, 2 teaspoons dried savory may be substituted for the onion and bay leaves.

The next Forum will appear in Friday’s Time Out section.

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