You’ll live large at Claim Jumper

LYNNWOOD – The new Claim Jumper restaurant at Alderwood Mall has a California Gold Rush theme. The servers’ name badges look like frontier sheriff badges, antler chandeliers cradle antique-style lights, and the dining room’s accented with an immense cut-stone fireplace.

On my Saturday late-afternoon visit, most of the brown leatherette booths were filled with foursomes, while the tables lining the middle of the dining room accommodated parties of eight or more. Yet, in this dining room that’s as large as an underground mine, guests don’t feel crowded.

Claim Jumper, founded in 1977 in California, is best known for its steaks and ribs and large portions of everything. I didn’t know about the large servings before my visit. Fortunately, the menu gave me a hint and my accommodating server warned me.

Most appetizers ($5.95 to $18.95) will serve two or more. There are some interesting selections, such as Southwest egg rolls that combine chicken, cilantro, black beans and two kinds of peppers ($8.95). The seared ahi rolls ($8.95) are made with ahi tuna, carrots, spinach, Asian noodles and herbs. They’re wrapped and lightly fried.

The steaks range from $18.95 for the 8 ounces of sirloin to $29.95 for the 24-ounce Porterhouse. Prime rib is served on Friday and Saturday after 4 p.m. and on Sunday beginning at noon. Sixteen ounces is $25.95 and 24 ounces is $28.95. The rib choices include a half-rack of baby back pork ribs for $20.95 and beef back ribs ($17.95 for a half rack). There’s also a rib and chicken combo ($23.95).

For vegetarians, there are salads ($5.95 to $6.95) veggie burgers ($9.95) baked potato-Cheddar soup plus two choices from the pizza-and-calzone section – tomato basil pizza and spinach calzone ($8.95 each).

Not exactly what comes to mind when I think steak and ribs.

There didn’t seem to be anything on the menu my size and I’m not the right age for the children-senior menu. I thought about the chicken pot pie, ($11.95) and asked my server for advice. He suggested the Oaxacan sea bass, which he said he would eat every day if he could. Better yet, it was available in from the lunch menu ($13.95).

It was an excellent choice. The perfectly braised sea bass sat atop an extremely generous portion of fluffy steamed rice that was surrounded by a delicious tomato broth. The sauce was filled with chunks of onions, celery, Roma tomatoes and lightly seasoned with chili and cilantro. I enjoyed every bite of it as well as my glass of Franciscan Oakville State chardonnay ($9.75.)

Claim Jumper has an acceptable 36-bottle wine list with bottles from California, Nevada, Oregon and Washington. Most cost around $25. There are also 75 beers available, including two house brews: honey blonde and red ($4.25 for a pint).

I chose the bowl of soup over the salad because, once again, my server recommended it. The potato cheddar was just as delicious as my main dish. The creamy soup was a perfect blend of potatoes and cheese accented with potato pieces. It was topped with a generous slice of cheese and crispy deep-fried shoestring potatoes, as was the sea bass.

In a restaurant with a ‘49er theme, it was my duty to order the Chocolate Motherlode Cake ($7.95). My server tried to talk me out of it, indicating that it was a large portion. The word “large” does not do justice to this dessert. It’s 12 inches tall, made from six three-inch wide wedges of cake and served with a steak knife.

Using the steak knife, I freed one wedge from the stack, moved it to my dessert plate and enjoyed it with a cup of coffee. Like everything else at Claim Jumper, this cake is for the serious diner. It’s dense and rich, and has large chocolate bits in the icing. I enjoyed my “tiny” slice as much as my dinner. Then, I decided I should recommend you visit this restaurant before your New Year’s resolution to lose weight.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Anna Poole: features@heraldnet.com