EVERETT — At $14.95 for a four-course gourmet meal, and no tipping, this deal at a student-run restaurant in Edmonds might be one of the best in Snohomish County.
But you better hurry, or be prepared to wait until the fall.
The gourmet deal can be found at The College Cafe at Edmonds College in Lynnwood. The catch? It’s only open when classes are in session for the college’s culinary arts program.
Because the program closes for the summer, lunch at the training restaurant will end on June 11. After that, you will have to wait until Sept. 30.
The restaurant is only open from 11:45 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. Reservations are recommended because the cafe is often sold out.
Now for the delicious details.
The restaurant is training offered to students who are taught the basics, with an emphasis on fresh food.
“We want to make sure everything is made from scratch,” said Chef Kevin Fogarty, one of three culinary instructors.
Servers in training in the college culinary program bought me my meal, trying hard to please with prompt, professional service.
My meal on May 28 started out with fried zucchini in tomato sauce. It was soft and creamy on the inside and crispy on the outside with a subtle hint of parmesan.
Minestrone soup was next with pasta, onion, carrot, celery, cannelloni bean, parsley and parmesan. It seemed like a lot of ingredients, but everything simmered together and, like magic, I was left with a rich, complex and bold broth.
The main course, pesto gnocchi, was next. The dish consisted of dumplings, made from potato, flour and egg, combined with grilled chicken, tomato, parmesan and arugula salad.
The made-from-scratch gnocchi, were so airy and light that it basically melted in my mouth. It was a reason to eat out because no packaged gnocchi will ever give you that pleasure.
While the grilled chicken and other ingredients added to the dish seemed like too much at first blush, it actually added a complementary, satisfyingly savory flavor.
The lunch finished with a vanilla bean ice cream and an amaretto cookie. The cookie had a slightly bitter, nutty flavor that pairs perfectly with the ice cream.
I would say the serving size of the ice cream was the only disappointment of the meal, as it was only about a half scoop.
But the restaurant also contains a separate pastry counter, run by students in Edmonds College’s baking and pastry program, which is a separate offering from the culinary program. The pastries start at $1 and can cost as much as $3.75, offering a chance at another sweet bite.
I won’t say if I indulged, but I did walk a little extra to burn off the calories.
A second entree offering on May 28 offered diners a fettuccine Alfredo entree with sauteed shrimp.
But don’t keep either the pesto gnocchi or the fettuccine Alfredo entree in your mind.
The menu at The College Cafe changes either weekly or every two weeks.
Fogarty said students need to be exposed to making different dishes.
He said a capstone project for the five-quarter program has students write the menu, giving them experience in creating the dishes and ensuring that the entire kitchen staff is involved in the preparation.
Students rotate various positions in the cafe, from server to working at various food prep stations, such as saucing and sauteing food.
“Students get to understand all the positions necessary to running a restaurant,” Fogarty said.
Angelina Saechao, 19, said the culinary program has taught her better communication skills and how to think on her feet while figuring out a food preparation issue.
“Sometimes the culinary instructors aren’t available,” Saechao said.
On May 28, Saechao was working as a server, rounding out her kitchen experience with waiting tables.
Saechao, now in her third quarter of the program, hopes to eventually open a pastry shop with her 26-year-old sister, a cake decorator.
Fogarty said even being a server in the class is important because the students learn how to coordinate with the kitchen staff in delivering the food in a timely manner.
He said the customer gets fine dining and great service at an affordable price.
He is right about that. With two cans of Coke Zero added to my check and taxes, the total tab came out to $20.85.
The reservations line for the cafe is 426-640-1405. It is located in Brier Hall on the Edmonds College campus, room 105. The college is located at 20000 68th Ave. West, Lynnwood. 98036
Randy Diamond: 425-339-3097; randy.diamond@heraldnet.com.
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