SELECTING: Roses are sold potted up in soil or bare root. Buying bare roots is cheaper and the plants establish faster. Opt for varieties of roses that are resistant to black spot and powdery mildew, two common problems in Western Washington. Roses are graded by size. No. 1 grade is the best. The American Rose Society also ranks roses based on a combination of factors such as color and disease resistance. Anything on their list above an 8 is a good bet (http://www.ars.org/About_Roses/rosy_recommendations.html).
You’ll see roses for sale at the grocery store and big box stores. You might find a diamond among the riffraff, but you’ll find better selection from a nursery or online source specializing in roses such as Jackson and Perkins (http://www.jacksonandperkins.com). Don’t buy until you’re ready to plant.
A rose is the Jessica Simpson of your garden. You’ll be pampering and pruning it for years. When it’s time to buy, don’t go cheap.
PLANTING: Pick a spot with good drainage and at least six hours of full sun. Stick the roots of the plant in a bucket of water overnight or at least a few hours. Your rose is going to need that water. Dig a good size hole and spread the roots out gently. The goal is to have the graft union (you should see a bulge above the roots) slightly above the soil level.
GROWING: Roses need about an inch of water a week. Always water from below so the leaves don’t get wet. It’s more effective to give your roses one, long deep soaking rather than a bunch of little drinks. You will probably need some kind of regular spraying program to prevent black spot and other diseases and pests (http://www.heraldnet.com/stories/07/04/19/100hg_42hgdebra001.cfm). Fertilize about once a month with bone meal or something similar.
PRUNING: Don’t be afraid to prune your roses. The best time for modern roses is early spring. Cane growers are amazingly forgiving. Nobody is grading you so be tough! I like this short guide: (http://www.ars.org/About_Roses/pruning-101.html).
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