Run to the Hills’

  • Andrea Miller<br>Enterprise features editor
  • Monday, March 3, 2008 11:36am

Sometimes the best “Dining Out” ideas come from our readers. Such is the case with Shoreline’s Hills’ Food &Wine, which has been building a reputation in the Richmond Beach neighborhood for good food and fine wine since it opened last fall.

It’s easy to miss when driving west on Richmond Beach Road, where it is tucked behind a law office and the Shoreline Fire Safety Center. But your perseverence will be worth it.

Stopping in for a late lunch recently, I took advantage of the warm sunny weather to dine on the patio. Comfortable wicker chairs and bench seating are paired with stone mosaic bistro tables and umbrellas. Large potted herbs and other striking plants soften the edges of the dining area and add to the European cafe setting. Outdoor heaters waiting to the side on standby for the late dinner crowd. If you don’t enjoy dining under the sun or stars, Hills’ has ample indoor seating that continues the elegantly informal bistro theme.

Diners have a range of choices on Hills’ lunch menu. I elected to try the Caesar salad (a bargain at $5), topping it with blackened salmon ($3 more; chicken or bay shrimp are also available). But that was a tough call; my eye was also drawn to the salmon sandwich ($9), the chicken taco ($7; substitute halibut for $2 more) and the “143 Special,” slow roasted pork and ancho barbeque sauce on toasted bread, served with coleslaw and haystack fries ($7.50).

My server was very accomodating when I asked to order a second selection for take out — it was going to be a late night at work and I knew there’d be no time later to go out and grab dinner. I chose the turkey club on wheat bread, with smoked bacon, havarti cheese, lettuce (hold the tomato), dijon mayonnaise and fries.

The Caesar salad arrived promptly and I was very pleased that the large saucer plate had been chilled prior to adding the salad ingredients, keeping the lettuce crisp and the dressing cool. The blackened salmon served on top was hot and evenly grilled. The result was a rare pleasure — it’s not easy to have hot and cold together in one dish, especially when the tempurature outside is approaching 80 degrees.

My turkey club arrived right along with the bill. Later, I congratulated myself for thinking ahead and ordering what turned out to be perfect “brain food” for a deadline night. The sandwich held up well to several hours in the office refrigerator.

Since it was the middle of my work day, I wasn’t able to take advantage of Hills’ extensive wine menu. In addition to an intriguing selection of by-the-glass or bottle whites and reds, Hills’ also does a brisk business with its carefully selected retail wine inventory. For Washington Wine Month, favorite state vintners are featured prominently on a supplemental menu, where suggestions are offered for pairing wines with dinner menu items.

I will have to make a return trip to investigate.

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