Tiki is not so tacky

  • Sue Waldburger<br>Enterprise writer
  • Monday, March 3, 2008 11:37am

If you’ve ever wondered what happened to all that Hawaiiana kitsch from those rockin’ frat parties at Wazzu that you’ve (ahem) heard about, look no further than The Very Taki Tiki Bar and Grill at 518 Main St. in Edmonds.

From the bikini-clad monkeys carved from coconuts to the velvet Elvis painting above the bar, this new addition to Edmonds’ casual-dining community is the brainchild of Rick and Julie Colgan, owners of the venerable Rory’s of Edmonds down the street. The Colgans, who may be the biggest Washington State University fans in town, come close to perfecting the art of the affordable (complete dinner plus drink for under $15), family-friendly diner by day and lively watering hole at night. They did it at Rory’s and Taki Tiki looks to be no exception.

Featured on the menu our waitress said was penned by the Colgans (fueled, I suspect, by Purple Geckos and other creativity-unleashing bar specialties ) are typical and not-to-typical (fried bologna boats with spicy Thai mustard, anyone?) diner fare.

Stick food meals, featuring generous chunks of meat, chicken or seafood on a skewer, can be had for $5.75-$10.25. Island specialties, including grilled tuna steak or ribs with all the trimmings, run about $10-$12.

Haleakala-size salads include the Island Shrimp Caesar topped with mango, grilled pineapple and toasted coconut for $9.25. The combo proved a tad too sweet for my palate, but got points for creativity.

The Pulled Kola Nachos ($8.25), a big ol’ pile of oven-baked chips, pulled barbecued pork, melted cheese, mango salsa and sour cream went over big with my husband.

Had it been a special occasion, I might have wheedled the Dom Perignon and broiled Spam kabobs at $125 out of him.

For those “unexpected results of that bottle of champagne that ‘he’ ordered on your last tropical vacation” (aka the kids), Taki Tiki offers the weird (grilled Spam ‘n cheese with the advice, “Just tell ‘em it’s ham”) and the wonderful (halibut and fries) for $5.25-$6.25.

With the over-the-top wall decor, multiple big-screen TVs broadcasting Tiger’s latest come-from-behind win and (un)roll-your-own paper-towel napkins at every table, there’s little danger the keikis will whine, “Let’s go, I’m bored.”

With the conviviality that’s a Colgan trademark plus a good selection of beers, wines and mixed drinks, their parents won’t, either.

Dining Out is a weekly column profiling a local restaurant selected by a staff writer. Writers accept no invitations, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Writers arrive unannounced, and The Enterprise pays their tabs.

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