By Holly Kennell
Community Horticulture Agent
for Snohomish County
Now that the leaves are dropping from deciduous trees and shrubs, many gardeners are thinking about doing some pruning. Some people are afraid of pruning; others are entirely too gung ho! Bad pruning is one of the most common mistakes made by novice gardeners and those who should know better.
Let’s start by killing some myths about pruning.
Myth 1: All plants need to be pruned.
Fact: Most plants will do very well with little or no pruning. We prune for some real or perceived benefit to ourselves, such as more flowers or fruit, removing ugly dead branches and creating a desirable shape.
Myth 2: Pruning is necessary to keep a tree or shrub from growing too big.
Fact: If the tree or shrub keeps out-growing its spot, you should replace it with one that matures with the height or breadth you want. (Fall is a super time to plant, since the soil is moist, but still fairly warm.)
Myth 3: Shearing shrubs makes a garden look tidy and pleasing.
Fact: Okay, this is a matter of taste, but, personally, I hate landscapes where all the shrubs are shaped into green boxes, meatballs and gumdrops. Unless you have a topiary, a traditional Japanese garden or a formal hedge, let the shrubs be shrub-shaped.
As you are unlikely to have the first two, I will comment further only on hedges. Hedge plants should be chosen for small leaf size, slow growth and ability to take pruning and regrow, even on old wood.
Japanese holly, yew and Delavay osmanthus are some good hedge candidates. To often, impatient folks put in English laurel or photinia. The hedge grows fast, but then they spend huge amounts of time fighting to keep it under control.
Myth 4: There is only one good time to prune any plant.
Fact: There may be a best time, but, assuming you are not doing major surgery, do it when you notice the need or have the time. A bit of old gardeners wisdom is ” the best time to prune is any time the shears are sharp.”
If you are planning a drastic reduction in size, you will need to look up specifics for your plant. Usually the advice will be to prune soon after the plant’s bloom season.
Myth 5: Pruning in summer is never a good idea.
Fact: Actually, it’s a good time for some plants. Winter pruning stimulates growth and summer pruning has a bit of a dwarfing effect. If you have dogwoods, cherries, viburnums or crabapples that sucker profusely, try summer pruning to reduce regrowth. Additionally, pruning when it is warm and dry tends to reduce the possibility of disease infection of the pruning wound.
Myth 6: Pruning wounds larger than 2 inches should always be sealed with pruning paint.
Fact: It does no real good and some studies have shown that pruning paint increases wound infection, so why waste your time and money?
Pruning can be done to eliminate dead or diseased wood or shape the plant. The branch has to go, if it’s hiding your house numbers or requiring you to duck your head as you take out the trash. Prune tree branches back to the trunk or a side branch headed in an acceptable direction. Don’t cut into the swelling or “collar” where the branch originates, but don’t leave a stub either.
On shrubs, the easiest way to prune is to thin out older or wayward branches. Grab the branch with your free hand and work the hand with your pruners deep into the shrub. Cut at a side branch where possible. This works well with spiraeas, abelias, escallonias, barberries and other dense shrubs. With beauty bushes, heavenly bamboo, lilacs and any cane-type shrub, you will want take these old branches down to the ground.
This kind of pruning will give you a slightly shorter and tidier plant, while allowing it to keep its natural shape.
Talk to us
> Give us your news tips.
> Send us a letter to the editor.
> More Herald contact information.
