By Charlie Laughtland
Enterprise writer
Shame on the pizza chains for even making “extra cheese” an option.
At Sparta’s Pizza &Spaghetti House, when first-time patrons request extra cheese, they’re encouraged to think twice.
“We try to talk them out of it,” owner Chuck Geddes said.
For good reason. Sparta’s pizzas are all topped off with a thick layer of Danish cheese that creates a golden, crispy coating.
And it doesn’t stop there. Nearly all of the pasta dishes come smothered in the same buttery mozzarella and most of the salads are accented with shredded cheese.
“It crusts over when you bake it. We use it like a lid — it seals everything in,” said Geddes, whose father purchased the Lynnwood restaurant in 1989 from the original owners. In 1996, the family expanded their operations by opening a Bothell location.
With 20 different pizza toppings to choose from, the possibilities might seem endless. So Sparta’s offers 30 varieties, a make-your-own option and two combos (which are soon to be joined by a chicken combo that’s still in the design phase).
The Sparta’s Special includes three types of meat, mushrooms, black olives, green peppers and onions. Then there’s the Greek, an all-veggie alternative that comes with pesto, garlic, onions, tomatoes, feta cheese and artichoke hearts.
While the combos run $19.50 for a large, most of the large two- and three-toppers are $15.75-$17. A 7-inch luncheon pizza starts at $4.25, plus 75 cents per topping.
The hot submarine sandwiches are akin to French bread pizza and partnered with a side salad make for an inexpensive lunch. The Italian meatball sandwich is served on the same poor boy roll and comes dripping with — what else — Danish cheese.
Each of the baked pastas (manicotti, canneloni, lasagne and spaghettini) are bumped up from $7 to $8.75 on the dinner menu and the other classic Italian selections (ravioli, spaghettini and fettuccini alfredo) receive similar treatment.
The slightly-expanded dinner menu also includes chicken Parmesan, eggplant Parmesan and baked spaghettini and Italian sausage and baked spaghettini, all of which are available for lunch.
All of the pasta servings are plentiful and come with a large slice of crunchy garlic bread and the choice of soup or salad.
“You feel like you’ve had a full meal when you’re done here,” Geddes said. “A lot of people end up taking leftovers home. Probably 95 percent of the tables.”
Many patrons also take home some of Sparta’s homemade salad dressings ($3.75/pint). By making its dough, sauces, meatballs and dressings in-house, Sparta’s pizzas and pastas have a fresh, authentic taste.
But in the end, the cheese stands alone.
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